from brother's trucks
55-59 KINGPIN SET - 1/2 TON
Item #: KPRS400
$79.99
this requires some machine shop work to hone or ream the new bushings to fit the new king pin shafts. some guys simply take the stuff apart and deliver it to a machine shop and they do the whole job, including pressing out the old bushings, pressing in the new bushings, honing or reaming (some bushing sets have teflon surfaces and require a reamer, some are just brass bushings that need to be honed). some guys will remove the whole front axle and take the complete unit to the shop and have them dissassemble and rebuild it. it's a money, skill, time, shop space and available tool thing.
47-59 OUTER TIE ROD END
Item #: TRO4759
left $149.99
right $149.99
47-59 STEEL CENTER TIE ROD
Item #: RTR4759
$59.99
this is the tube that goes from left to right
55-59 DRAG LINK
Item #: OFDL559
$99.99
this connects the steering box to the steering part by the wheel
55-59 PERFORMANCE GAS SHOCK - FRONT
Item #: DGS059F
$49.99 each (2 req)
55-59 FRONT SHOCK MOUNTS
Item #: 5559FSM
$79.99
don't know if you require them but lots of the stock ones are worn out, missing or broken
55-59 FRONT LEAF SPRING BUSHING AN PIN 1/2 & 3/4
Item #: SEBB012
$34.99 each (2 req)
these go on the front of each spring
55-56 SPRING SHACKLE SET - ALL
Item #: BSS0130
44.99 each (2 req)
these go on the rear of each spring
55-59 LEAF SPRING - FRONT - 1/2 TON - EACH
Item #: LFS5559
$209.99 each (2 req)
don't know if you require these but I included them anyway
51-70 DRUM BRAKE - FRONT/REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: FMA5154
$49.99 each (2 req)
51-59 DRUM BRAKE SHOES - FRONT - 1/2 TON
Item #: DBS1001
$34.99
51-63 BRAKE SPRING SET- FRONT/REAR
Item #: BSK5154
$24.99
51-59 WHEEL CYLINDER - FRONT - 1/2 TON
Item #: WCF5900
$39.99 right
$39.99 left
55-59 FRONT BRAKE HOSE - 1/2 TON - SHORTBED
Item #: PNYWS09
$16.99 each (2 req)
55-59 MASTER CYLINDER - 1/2 TON TO 1 TON
Item #: MC15559
$99.99
this is a stock, single system master cyl. you may want to upgrade to something with a dual system. single system brakes means the whole system runs on a single hydraulic circuit. if you have a leak or a line bursts etc then you lose ALL your brakes at the same time. they changed that back in the 60's.
55-56 BRAKE LINE SET - 1/2 TON - SHORTBED - 2WD - STEEL
Item #: CTB5501
$175.00
these are the steel lines for the whole truck
BRAKE LINE RETAINER SET - SPECIFIC
Item #: FBLCS00
51-59-$19.99
these are the clips used to hold the brake lines
47-59 TAPERED ROLLER BEARINGS
Item #: TRB4759
$179.99
this is an upgrade from the ball bearings that these old trucks came with. better for radial tires and larger side loads
that is the stock front end stuff minus the steering box. you could source a used stock box, which will come with the steering column pressed into the box. you would also need a steering wheel and a horn/signal switch combo.
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rear, assuming you have a stock rear axle.
55-59 PARKBRAKE CABLE - FRONT - 1/2 TON - SHORTBED
Item #: CF91959
$19.99
55-59 PARKBRAKE CABLE - REAR
Item #: CR91949
$24.99 each (2 req)
51-59 DRUM BRAKE SHOES - REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: DBS1002
$49.99
51-70 DRUM BRAKE - FRONT/REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: FMA5154
$49.99 each (2 req)
51-63 BRAKE SPRING SET- FRONT/REAR
Item #: BSK5154
$24.99
55-73 WHEEL CYLINDER - REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: WCR7200
left $19.99
right $19.99
51-54 FRONT BRAKE HOSE & 51-59 REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: PNYWS02
$16.99
this is the hose that goes from the frame to the axle
55-59 REAR LEAF SPRING PIN AND BUSHING 1/2 & 3/4
Item #: SEBB013
$39.99 each (2 req)
also need a tapered lock pin to hold the pin in the bracket. part TLP5559. did not come up for me. probably add a few more bucks for that
55-56 SPRING SHACKLE SET - ALL
Item #: BSS0130
$44.99 each(2 req)
55-59 PERFORMANCE GAS SHOCK - REAR
Item #: DGS059R
49.99 each (2 req)
47-59 AXLE BUMPERS
Item #: AXB4759
$9.99 each (2 req)
55-59 LEAF SPRING - REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: LFR5559
$349.99 each (2 req)
don't know if you need them but put them in anyway
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now, if you wanted to upgrade to power steering.
here is a power steering kit from classic performance parts. this may cause problems with header/exhaust manifold interference due to it's width from the frame mount but bolts on in the stock location. it comes with hoses I think. you would need a steering column/steering wheel/signal switch etc from a donor vehicle that is long enough to get through the floor with the wheel at a comfortable height for you with your seat arrangement. did you say you had one that came with the truck? if not try to also grab the auto shift linkage and rods etc from the donor. some columns have a high low beam switch, ign key, tilt etc. some will have a gear indicator on the column , some have a cable operated thing that works a linkage in the cluster. these would be more difficult to know what gear you are in because the original dash doesn't have that. you also need the hanger for the column that goes under the dash, or fab one.
CP50006C 1955-59, 400 Series™, each
$379.00
another cpp part below
collapsable steering column shaft to connect the column to the box and the end of your steering column where it protrudes through the floor.
4759CSS 1947-59 with U-joints, each Photo/Info
$139.00
more brothers stuff now
47-87 POWER STEERING PUMP WITH DOUBLE PULLEY
Item #: PSP4766
$169.99
47-87 POWER STEERING PUMP BRACKET KIT - PLAIN
Item #: PSPB766
$59.99
some of this stuff would be available at pick n pull for cheap, like the power steering pump with brackets, a column etc. the box is apparently from a toyota truck but that is something you can research if you decide to go that way. there is also a box conversion that puts a '70's era box on the outside of the frame ahead of the wheels but that one limits the steering because the tires will rub the box on a hard right turn. there is also a power assist unit available but, from experience on other units like that over the years, they are prone to leakage and can be either too sensitive or not very sensitive. if doing a power steering conversion you may also need the adjustable drag link. that is the part that connects the steering arm on the box to the steering arm on the front axle part.
now for power brakes
here is a link to show a power brake front disc conversion from performance online. it is just the first one I clicked on, there are others available that mount differently using the stock old truck bearing hub and a slip on rotor. not sure what availability of rotors would be later. this kit uses stock camaro rotors which is a bonus for a daily driver because nearly every parts place would have availability same day. beware that some kits have larger rotors that won't fit with a stock 15" wheel because the calipers will interfere with the wheel.if you plan on swapping to disc brakes at some point remember that the master cylinder is different for disc brakes compared to drum brakes. it would be more cost effective to do that job the first time rather than in the future. a disc front/disc rear is yet another master cylinder.
here is a link for just the power booster and master cyl so you could use stock brake est up
https://www.fabquest.com/55-59-chevy...-assembly.html
one from classic parts that is just the booster and mounting bracket
https://www.classicparts.com/1955-59...ctinfo/71-908/
here is a link to show how to install power brake kit from cpp, if you want to see how involved the job would be. maybe a do it yourself job, not sure of your skill set.
http://www.classicperform.com/tech_a...on-braking.htm
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i really recommend a power brake unit of some sort. some guys use hydroboost as well but it takes some fab work. the nice thing about hydroboost is it takes less room. it runs off pressure from the power steering pump. check ogre's thread to see what he did for his hydroboost if that interests you. I also really recommend a power steering system for a daily driver. make it easy to use and the fun level will go up automatically.
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the front clip swap is another alternative and may be cheaper to do but more labour intensive and should be welded in by a qualified welder. set up is key to get things at the correct ride height, level and correct geometry for the clip to work as it was intended. bear in mind that you will also need to come up with a firewall mounted pedal set up. not the end of the world. some of the aftermarket power brake set ups use a firewall mounted brake booster and include a pedal set up in the kit.
if you are getting the clip from a donor vehicle try to grab as much stuff as you can, complete clip with stabilizer bar, steering box and pump, hoses etc, set of 5 wheels, master cylinder, proportioning valve and booster, possibly the rear axle, seats etc. anything you can think of that you will need for your truck. a clip will usually yield you 5 bolt wheels so if you can get the rear axle as well, with stabilizer bars etc, then you would have a matched set up for wheels. most guys would like to get rid of as much stuff from a parts car as they can all at once and there could be a better deal the more parts you grab.
if doing the clip thing, try to get a measurement of the angle of the frame with the weight of the car on it. that way you will know the angle that the frame is supposed to be at when at ride height.
here is a recent thread showing a good idea for marking the location of the rad support if doing a clip. it is one of those things that can drive you crazy if you have to try to figure it out after the frame is cut off. the same for the front bumper horns.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=730565&page=2
there are lots of guys who have done the clip thing and probably as many ways to get it done. just take lots of pics no matter what you do so you have a reference later.
anyway, this is getting pretty long winded but hopefully it will help you decide what you want to do with your project.