check this site out. nice way of doing things and the doors etc are fit to the cab on arrival. not sure of the price though. if you pay a bit more for a good fitting cab/door combo it may be worth the extra as long as it is within the budget. a lot of time can be spent grinding and fitting etc, so if you count your labor as anything or want the truck on the road for summer it is a choice for you. that time could be spent ding something else productive.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/premi...hevrolet-cabs/
you say you have a 55 and we assume it is a task force truck. is that correct?
like footstomper says, tell us EXACTLY what you have. we will help but we need to know what you are working on. big difference between 55 1st and 2nd editions.n they changed mid year so it can be a totally different truck. advanced design(AD trucks) or task force (TF trucks) are 2 differnt things and 54 -55 AD trucks are a different thing even in their own group of truck designs.
the new cab is a great way to go if you can afford it. if doing it over I would really look seriously at it. it is a bunch of money to layout initially but if you have redone a truck and kept all the bills you would be shocked to see the final tally. it would be close or more than a new cab. here is the list for my cab
-cab corners, inner and outer both sides
-door pillars each side, front and rear. several parts related to this area. plus rear lower front fender mount brackets, both sides
-hinges, upper and lower each side
-front cab mounts, each side
-floor repair panels, both sides
-rear cab mount repairs to the floor area, both sides
-step and rocker panels, both sides
-step rear brace, both sides
-inner cowl panel, both sides, plus repairs to water drip rails and rotted cab attachment areas for the cowl panels, both sides
-door lower outer skin, both sides. repair to lower hinge area inside the door- custom fab, both sides. lower inner door panel, both sides
-repairs to the eyebrow area above the windshield.
-repairs to the drip roof rail area, all around the cab drip rail-rotted. or-replace the roof and the eyebrow inner cab rood panel
-repairs to the windshield rubber retainer lip-rotted out area. try to find a donor part or replace the outer cowl/vent panel
-add spot weld cutters, drill bits, zip discs, flap discs, welding consumables, weld through primer, epoxy primer, gun wash etc, body filler, sanding supplies, respirators supplies tools to do the aforementioned jobs and TIME.
would be very close or actually more to repair the original cab, in my case. factor in time lost to another job that could help pay for the new cab instead of that same time spent repairing the old cab, or time that could be spent doing something else or actually cruising in your finished truck (because it got done sooner due to NEW cab instead of repaired cab)
factor in the hassle and cost of getting a vin transferrred to the "new" cab
do the math and decide for yourself on which is the best way to go for you. do a thorough check on how rough your cab is to start with. also factor in the cost recover of selling your old cab to cover some cost of the new cab.
if the gmc dash is a must for you then you could cut it out of the old cab, rebuild anything that is "rough" and have it welded into the new cab. then sell the chevy dash part that comes with the new cab.