[smbrouss70]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Yes, everyone that my wife has mentioned this to at her work thinks I’m a lunatic and won’t talk to me anymore... I’ll just go over here and be crazy by myself

Trust me, you won't be lonely in the crazy corner!

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Welcome aboard!

I think you could get away with moving the whole crossmember forward a bit, without interfering with the steering center link. Possibly combine that with the lower control arm “caster mod” for more centering. We will see how it pans out, but I will play with it a bit to see what works best.

If you think about it, moving the whole crossmember forward isn’t a whole lot different from using 1” forward tubular arms, as far as steering linkage geometry is concerned when related to the pitman and idler arm locations (someone please correct me if I’m under-thinking this). Stock type anti-sway bars can have the ends trimmed and linkage style bars might be able to absorb the difference (or have bushing locations redrilled, as you stated, thankfully, I’m starting from scratch there).

All that to say, it may not be too terribly complicated to gain that extra inch. 104” wheelbase is stock, so probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 105” will look “right”. I’m pretty excited to finally get to play with one (the yellow Blazer was already converted when I bought it). Let’s find out together

You might have the inner tie-rod ends get too close to the crossmember if you move it forward, but that should be able to be "clearanced" or notched to provide enough room for them. Another issue that would come into play only if you are bagging it, is the fact that the steering column shaft may interfere with the upper control arm when laid out. Again, an easy fix for someone with your particular skill set.