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Old 05-11-2017, 10:19 PM   #229
HO455
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 10,783
Re: Working Man's Burbon

Moved forward on the interior lights. When I removed the last remaining headliner piece I found the unused factory wiring above. Using the existing plug I soldered new wires to it and ran them forward above the mirror, back to above the hatch, and down the A pillar to under the dash. I had three under counter LED lights left over from a kitchen project, which used 120 VAC to 12VDC power supplies. An earlier test of the lights on a car battery proved they would work without the power supplies. I laid out the mounting of the lights, putting one above the mirror, above the rear hatch, and over the third door. With the door switches already wired it was pretty simple to hook up. Orange is 12 volt positve and the white is hooked to the door switches which ground out when a door is opened. Along with this I pulled the headlight switch and installed an additional lead in one of the empty slots of the plug (The orange wire next to the green wire) so I could install a chime (Think doorbell not buzzer) that will sound when the door is open and the lights are on. The chime came from Radio Shack. The headlight switch supplies 12+ when the switch is in the park light and headlight positions and the 12 neg comes through the door switch.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help.
RIP Bob Parks.
1967 Burban the WMB,1991 S(stink)-10 Blazer,1969 GTO, 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird. 85 Alfa Romeo
If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place
The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377

Last edited by HO455; 05-11-2017 at 10:29 PM. Reason: -25 grammar
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