[cfan10]

Originally Posted by sick472

It looks like you have a normally open switch with a lighted button with two swithced poles. I would guess that the "+" terminal supplies the power to both the "NO" terminals and the button light (if equipped with the light) and the "-" terminal is for the light, as well. The ground for the "NO" circuit would be a chassis ground near the fog lights. The color of wires that are hooked up in the photo do not look right to me for a 12 volt system. The "+" and the "NO" terminals should be red and the "-" should be black in a basic sense.

Do you have any more info on the switch, like a schematic or make and model. Let's assume it's a latching switch and not a momentary one...that will be important to figure out.

Chris gives good advice regarding the continuity meter. If my assumptions are correct, their should be NO continuity between the "+" or the "NO" terminals when the switch is in the OFF position, all of those should have continuity in the ON position. There will be continuity between the "+" and the negative given there is a light bulb installed and it's not burned out. This assumes the switch latches in position...otherwise the above holds true for a momentary switch so long as you are holding the switch in the proper configuration.

I have made a lot of assumptions and more information about the switch would be helpful.

Thanks for all the information, it's a cheap china latching switch ordered from Amazon in a set of 5 with absolutely no instructions. It puzzled me because I've never seen it wired that way.