[dsraven]

I recommend checking the frame for square and straight first and doing any work that needs to be done there before going forward. then setting the truck at ride height and rake angle and also level side to side.(you may have to remove the front tires for this and just set them in the opening if you will be going lower than stock. also make sure the tires are aired up the same on all 4 corners).if you are lowering the truck you would want to have the rear end as low as you want for ride height at this point. then fab up some solid shock replacement struts for the rear end so the suspension can't move and the frame has no choice but to be where you set it. you will be able to see how the rear tires look in their openings and if you are not satisfied now would be the time to change the ride height back there. putting the truck on stands would be the best scenario so the frame can't move even when the front end is cut off. the tires could be just touching the floor so it will be easier to see if you like the ride height and rake angle when you mock up the clip before welding. put a stand under the frame in the cab area so it is out of the way but still holding the frame/truck solid and as far forward as will allow work to be completed. remember that when the weight of the front end comes off, the truck will try to teeter totter backwards and load the rear and you want to compensate for that now by setting the frame on a solid base that won't move when the weight is removed or added or you need to shift something around a bit for fitment of the clip. you should also have the truck sitting on a set of tires of the size you want to use in the end. that way you know how far forward, if at all, you will want the axle centerline to be for the look you want when done. that would include a set for the new bolt pattern in the front, unless you have already changed the rear out to match. when I was setting up my frame for a MII front end I used a set of modified axle stands that allowed the use of threaded rod to connect the stands to the frame. that way the whole thing could easily be adjusted for level and rake angle. I also suggest the use of a digital level over a bubble level. just to check that I used a bubble level and got the frame level side to side. then I used a digital level on top of the bubble level and it was actually out of whack a couple of degrees. no big deal I guess but I thought I might as well get it right because it is the base that the whole truck will be sitting on top of. digital levels are getting cheaper now anyway.