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Master cylinder mounting

To mount the master I used the hole that speedometer cable passes through the firewall. If you’re using a 96 and up trans the cable is now useless anyway since those trans have a VSS and no provision for a mechanical cable. I plan to us a GPS speedometer app on my phone for now. This is about as high as you can mount it without getting into the area in the cowl for the wiper linkage. It could go up another ¼” maybe but I don’t think that’s necessary and it would be pretty close to the wiper motor then.

I made a template of the back of the master cylinder and lined it up using the existing hole as the lower left side of the mounting hole. I traced out the metal that needed to be removed and cut it out using a dremel tool with a cut off wheel. I attempted to use a hole saw but with no pilot hole it was too hard to control so I just followed my scribed line with the dremel and worked it down until it cut through. I know it looks close and it is but it doesn’t touch the brake booster or the wiper motor and you can easily remove the cap to add fluid.

I then made a plate out of some aluminum I had laying around to help spread out the load on the firewall. I threaded the holes in this plate so that the bolts act more like studs and you don’t necessarily need two people to take the master on and off. To attach the master to the clutch pedal I had to make some modifications to the pedal itself and make an extension to the master cylinder rod. The extension is just a piece of round stock that I drilled and tapped to 5/16-24 on both ends. I took a bolt and cut the head off to attach the extension to the rod end. Now the rod reaches the pedal, but it wants to land in the exact spot the old pedal return spring used to hook to. So I removed the pedal and cut that off flush with the edge of the pedal arm. After another test fit leaving the rest of that pad resulted in the master cylinder push rod being on an angle. This master can take a slight angle but too much will result in premature wear/failure. You also need to make sure the rod is close to level up and down for the same reason. So I cut part of that pad off to give clearance to the rod end. I used two washers to space it out a little and a nylock nut to ensure it stays connected. *in the pictures are 3 washers, I later removed one to lessen the angle on the push rod

I was worried about having a high pedal effort with it mounted about 3.5" down from the pedal pivot point. It was nothing to worry about now as it is no harder to use than a factory manual linkage setup, or anything with a high performance clutch. I’ve driven many other vehicles with a pedal that is much stiffer than this one wound up being. That could be partly from my clutch selection but it turned out good so I’m happy with it.