Quote:
Originally Posted by 68C15
It's possible the ignition switch is causing a draw after a while being unused. I have trouble explaining it but I can see it in my mind.
Put ammeter between cable and battery then check it every couple hours. If/when you see it above 20mA wiggle key to exercise the sliding contact in switch and see if draw goes away.
I check parasitic draw by using a digital meter and check voltage drop at fuses. I have a chart at work showing acceptable readings for each fuse rating.
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Thanks for jumping in here :-)
I had replaced the ignition switch and thought I had found my issue in it as it would not work in accessory mode. I ended up having replace the key switching part as well..
In doing that, I noticed that I had been leaving the Cruise control on too. I thought maybe the switch was leaking some how across and firing up the cruise control so like you said, replaced everything plus always rock and wiggle things testing with amps. My DMM does do 20 amps too.
Never considered voltage drop at different fuses. Most of what I am looking for is the amp draw that sucks the voltage down. Not sure in my mind how that might tie into this. But interested in hearing more.
I know I have forgotten a Lot of things I have tried and replaced over the years. Most of the time, I tend to test everything before it gets installed and then of course, looking for Any changes in what is going on.