[D13]

Mine would have key buzzer but when you went to crank everything would die. Found out I had a poor connectin on the RH battery that wHen the motor was cold it sometimes would make enough contact to go, and sometimes not. Appearently it was a a little lose and eventually it arced enough to melt the face of the battery terminal and caused the cables to be too loose to wrok some times. Ended up having to replace that battery.

I pulled the cables off the battery and cleaned the ends withn a small brass brush, dipped the positives in baking soda solution for an hour to clean out the acid,rinsed well then polished them up until shiny and let them dry overnight. Polished the battery terminal faces until they were shiny too. Replaced the positive battery bolts with gold plated studs, the ones the car stereo boys like. The RH one, where the LH cable feeds in, I replaced with a gold plated dual cable stud with a stud and nut on the end, this makes it a lot easier to jump the truck. It required a little trimmng of the plastic ends to get them in.

Put the studs into the battery (tight but no so tight as to strip the battery), installed the positive cables again being careful not to strip the battery out. It really doesn't take a ton of torque, they should be just tight enough that you can't rotate them by twisting the cable by hand. Then coated the outside and edges with a battery terminal protectant to prevent corrosion (or silicone grease - but it tends to get all over and is not paintable).

Be sure to check the connection at the starter (with BOTH ground cables disconnected). That nut can loosen or the positive cable starts breaking strands (pretty common), or the whole thing gets loose and oil soaked and oil is a bad conductor. Also the exposed end of the ground wires at the brackets can get corroded.
'If' I ever reo this truck ist getting new 2 gauge cables to a junction stud followed by 00 to the starter and 10 gauge to the junction block. That'll fix her.