Something about my kit's document. My excuse is I hadn't gotten to the license plates yet
promised a guy I'd be done with the kit by Nov. Turns out the part number listed for the rear plates is baloney, I'd say GM's error. And what a dealer sells for attaching the lamp to the rear bumper bar bracket is baloney too, they even show the wrong screw.
Anyway, I can send a fresh copy of the guide by request; the last 1-2 orders reflect the changes. It's really not a big deal, otherwise I'd send via email automatically. This amends the parts on topic, blue font.
BTW, no reviews of the KIT yet? I'm going to get a complex
The rear license plate mounts to its bracket with two clear finished slot truss head screws with dog point tips, and nylon nuts. The screw threads are 1/4 x 5/8”.
The kit is available on EBAY through jcapartscom.
The lamp assembly installs onto the license plate bracket’s top with two 1/4” hex flange head tap screws and star lock washers inserted from below. The screw threads are #10 x 3/4”.
As for attaching the lamp assm., I was lucky to find the info., finally. Course there are other ways to mount it. I remembered I had a spare lamp that was on the bracket I'd picked up long ago, and there they were. Looks right to me. I thought the lamp installed with #8, which is an option as well. Also thought they'd be dog-pointed (or b-pointed?) like the len's screws, which a certain dealer advertises, but nope. They send pointed tips that you can buy anywhere. Perhaps some lamp assm. screws are dog or B pointed, similar the lens screws.
I've read that at times the lamps don't work due a bad ground at the bracket, some folk suggest removing some finish from the brackets. Didn't doubt it for a second, everything is powder coated, or primed & painted, and the plate's frame has a clear coat too. Only surfaces I roughed up are for ground strap terminals, and there's only one for the bed.
Until today I'd never seen a plate lamp on my truck. Inspired me to drive her, and play the same square and corny AM station I grew up with. They play the same music, it hasn't changed at all and >>>> most radio stations. What a pleasure, I have serious object-what-the term is, it's a sickness
Has 300 miles and an oil change on her.
I needed to reword the following...Not that the prior info. was necessarily wrong, but it was surely unclear in regard to years and GMC. Now reads as...
1967-1971 Chevrolet trucks have a 12 character VIN. The first six characters designate the Chassis, Engine, GVW, Model, Year, and Factory. The last six characters designate the truck’s serial number. For example;
C = 2WD
E = V8
1 = 1/2 ton
4 = Pickup
1 = 1971
Z = Fremont
XXXXXX = Serial number
The SPIDS in Chevrolet trucks differ from GMC trucks, for the years 1967-1971. For one example, 70-71 GMC trucks have a 13 character VIN. One character is a designation of some type, or a dash if blank.
The SPIDS in 1972 Chevrolet and GMC trucks have the same data framework. The first of 13 VIN characters designates GMC (T) or Chevrolet (C).
The 1967-72 Chevrolet truck model ID provides the chassis, the engine, the GVW, the wheel base, and the body style. For example;
C = 2WD
E = V8
1 = 1/2 ton
07 = (SWB, 115")
34 = fleet side
The model ID for GMC trucks is different then that for Chevrolet trucks.
The RPO (regular production option) codes for a truck are displayed on SPIDS and build sheets. Reference images for the codes, or most of them.
Also worth noting, I'd sure hate to see someone sand a 69-71 door panel trim piece, because dummy wrote they're stainless
Chromed steel.
Bookmarked. Yeah, my steering box was rebuilt by reputable. But leaks at the pitman.
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=619634