[Tarm]

Thanks Hatzie
more awesome info. Unfortunately it means more things to order. I love excuses to get new tools though. Its how I have gotten most all the specialized tools I already own. I come into a job I need to do and buy it so I can do it myself. They add up over the years.

I forgot about the newer GP controller for the 6.2/5. Crap!! I ordered another old version from Rockauto. Should have gotten the newer square one. I may just return the older one then. But looking at my current one I have to say it looks to be the actual original one; 200K and 35yrs and still working. Not to shabby. I guess this engine got a good one LOL as I have read how inconsistent many are.

At this point I am not sure if the issue with the GP is at the fuse panel or the relay. It was all 100% till this complete elec power loss issue. It may just be the relay connection. Its not the controller I do not think as I do not hear the relay contacts close. I looked at a new relay and saw that it looks like a normal 2 wire GM alt connector will fit it perfect for the control wire contacts. I am not looking at any schematic and can not recall what I saw right now but I think one control wire goes to trigger in the cab and the other which follow it just goes to a ground? Is that correct??

I seem to recall seeing one of these 6.2 relays wired somewhere and they just had the one lead to a self tap screw in the inner fender next to it and the controller and waiting to start light worked. IIRC the one I saw also piggybacked a second control power lead to allow a manual override momentary switch. That will be a project for later as a back up.


Its rather interesting how my 7.3PS will start without GP to much cooler temp and the DT360 will start into the teens and has no GPs at all. But these 6.2 will just spin and spin even in the 50s if the GPs do not preheat things or you plug in the block heater for a couple hours.

Anyways looks like a few more hundred$$ in tools to order and waiting on the parts from Rock and Amazon. Want this GP system and this bad power connection to be all 100% before winter cold weather gets here. Need to also upgrade the headlights and put in some relays to the switch instead if full power running thru it. Bad design. Considering the DOT approved LED square lights. It looks like they can be wired to use all the led in two lights on low beam and 1/2 the leds in the second pair thats usually all high beam and then the other half for high. Not sure how they get aimed that way but I have seen a number of posts in places about it. I live in the sticks with almost all driving mountain back roads and highway the rest. Need the as much light as possible and still being legal. Up to 4 main lights are legal on low. So figured I would take advantage of it if I can.

Just not sure I like the look of those leds in these older body trucks but they sure are bright. The ones I am looking at everyone that has them says they are brighter than the halogen upgrades.