No problem Garry. Paul is correct and stated it probably better than me. I'm battling the flu since Sunday.
Instead of the hoses cut and stuffed with bolts or screws, you can go to just about any auto parts store and pickup some vacuum caps. There is a picture of them down below.
The hard starting is the choke. The intake manifold you have is for a divorced choke set up. No big deal since your carb has an electric choke. The carb is probably original to the truck. Not sure where you can buy the terminal for the choke's light blue wire. I had to grab one from a junkyard and splice it in. The choke element basically only goes on one way (held in by the 2 screws), which I labeled C. Some are notched (locked in place) and some can be turned rich or lean. I'm sure if you cut that tie wrap, your choke will close, like it should. I'm guessing whoever swapped motors, didn't swap the oil pressure switch from the old motor, on to this one.
Look towards the rear of the intake manifold, to the rt of the distributor...there should be a switch there. Only 1 spade on the terminal? (pic is down below of a typical oil pressure switch) I'm not sure what was in there originally, in spade number. You might have to go to parts store for the correct one or see if any of the wires have been "rigged" like the rest of the work done by the previous owner. I know I don't have the wire schematics on this laptop, but I did post them prior for someone else in any earlier thread.
You can do the vacuum lines like I posted in prior post. They are definitely wrong as they are now. Then you will have to deal with the choke, carb and possibly the timing. They may have screwed with them to keep it running.
I wouldn't cut that tie wrap just yet. You need to supply the choke element a constant 12volts with the light blue wire. Otherwise, it will stay closed and choke out the motor. It should start right up though.
You need to figure out the oil switch first and connect the vacuum lines properly.