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Old 03-13-2005, 02:10 AM   #9
72k5
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Livermore, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim240Z
What are you guys using for a shifter with the overdrive conversion. Obviously the original column shifter is only 1-2-3-n-r-p, so one more detent is needed (unless you are willing to lose 1st gear selection). Is there an oem/junk yard solution for column change/conversion?
I pulled a 200 4R from the junkyard and installed it using the stock column linkage on my 71 Cheyenne 20, but lost 1st gear selection. The change was very easy apart from the shifter issue. I ended up pulling the tranny out and putting the TH350 back in because the 200 needs a rebuild.
But after I rebuild it, what can I do for proper shifter selection?
(BTW, I did several searches and the only answer I could find was to use an aftermarket column/shifer...$$$$)

Thanks,
Tim
The detents you feel when you move the shift lever come from inside the tranny, not in the column, etc. So the problem is in rotating the tranny selector shaft enough degrees to be able to reach all the positions. You may be able to do this by adjusting the linkage. Mine has an adjustment bolt up by the brake booster. If that won't do it, or you don't like the fact that 1st is now off the scale, like I didn't, here's what to do:

Take the linkage off of the selector shaft crank (next to the tranny). Put the trans in first, and have someone hold the shifter lever where you want it to be when in first. Hold the linkage up to the crank, and find the position along the crank where it should be if there was a hole there. Mark that spot. Put the trans and the shifter lever in park and make sure that you can adjust the linkage so that it would work with the hole in the position you marked. If you have to readjust the linkage, check it again in first. You should be able to figure out where to put the hole with one or two attempts. The new hole will probably be about 3/4 inch closer to the selector shaft than the original.

I worked mine out on graph paper by measuring the stroke of the linkage, then comparing it to the available radius choices from the length of the crank and the amount of rotation needed. That's an alternative if you're more comfortable with that, but after I did it I found it really didn't need to be that precise.

For the column with the indicator perched on top of the column, you can replace the plastic in the indicator with a piece from "Ididit" that will properly indicate the added gear positions. I had to sand it down a touch to fit, and nighttime illumination is not as good as the original, but it is great for giving proper gear identification.

You wouldn't know from operation or look that the setup I have isn't OE (except for the dim indicator at night), so I can't see any advantage to a replacement column.
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