[LH Lead-Foot]

Yes, I agree with fit, finish, panel gaps and even trim on the 60's into early 70's trucks. These vehicles where primarily the working mans utility on the job site, farm and hauling materials to the job site. So what happened, they where built heavy but not high end fitment.
I have never installed stainless steel trim on the drip rails of any brand, although I will make that purchase when it become behind my other priorities. I have owned a MIG since 1984 and ran miles of wire thru it while watching the price of shield gas go up about $22 each year for a 125 cu.ft. tank 75/25%.

I can't imagine welding on the the drip rail that had been remove or shaved by a previous owner, but I have seen and heard it has been a trend. A smoother look, less wind noise or what ever the reason.

My son had be weld up the rear inner and outer panels on the back of his El Camino. I thought he was crazy. I had to hammer the edges together & cut strips of steel, tack to a weld wire, then slide it in sideways to have a backer to weld to. Even with low setting and using 0.30 wire, it took hours.

I like chrome or SS on a vehicle. My 67 C10 has OEM drip rails over the windshield and doors. They have never been damaged, but I still took time to straighten them, align straight and even a little grinding. While the edges of the skins over lap a little, it still took some effort to look flat to accept SS drip rail trim in the future. I just know that a the trim is friction fit, I will be nervous but the 3 piece trim on with the little joint clips...while hoping not to scrape off any paint.

I took extra effort to clean the top side seam sealer that was OEM and had to crack, separate and a few areas that where really thin. I use 3M seam sealer from the roof side to finish of this joint to prevent leaks. I use 3M glazing sealer, a black goo in a caulking gun to seal the windshield rubber to prevent leak also. Has anyone done this to help eliminate windshield leaks? They sell it. I use the heavy paint stick ground to a thin tapper to slide under the rubber to lift and seal. While it was a few inches at a time, it was still worth it. The rubber was new and hard area was the top, under the drip rail. Never sealed the bottom. Hope driving rain a road speed does not prove this wrong.

Regards everyone who have gone far beyond the normal fabrication during their builds. I see a lot of excellent work, ideas and execution of various task. Hats off!