Quote:
Originally Posted by jocko
While an original drum/drum mc will work for your scenario, it is not necessarily the correct approach, even with an adjustable disk/drum prop valve. There is a difference between drum/drum and disk/drum mc’s. It’s worth spending the $25-30-ish bucks for a correctly matched system. It’s not the fact that you’re converting to hydroboost - it’s because you’re converting from drum/drum that drives the need for a correct mc. (In other words, if you were converting a 71 or newer to hydroboost, no you would not necessarily need a new mc).
|
Agreed.
Do it correctly, it's worth it. I just swapped out the booster and master on my Jeep CJ yesterday. Stock front disc/drum. I had a Corvette maser, 1.18 for disc/disc. Disc/drum prop valve. Firm pedal and the rear were pretty much useless. I swapped in a dual diaphragm booster and master from a 1995 YJ with 6cyl which is a 1 inch bore and set up for disc/drum. I can no lock all 4 up without issue. Perhaps the best the brakes have worked even when new.
In short, brake systems are set up to work together. Get the correct parts.
