Quote:
Originally Posted by Dukagora
I think most of you are mechanics. Sadly I am not at all. I have some experience working on vehicles. Had a 77 that needed an engine rebuilt but once the failed cam was identified, my stepdad and I opted to have a machine shop rebuild it and we dropped it in. He handled the timing.... I pulled the engine on my wife's car and had it rebuilt after it dropped an intake valve seat. Had some help getting the engine in just because it was very stubborn lining up, but it was mostly a plug and play thing I think. Everything laid back in to position for me wiring and hose wise.
I don't have the skill set for soldering, or making my own connectors.
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I'm not trying to be nasty just firmly in touch with reality. If you don't have the skills to solder in pigtails or build your own connectors you will not be making a wiring harness that will last. Butt splices and Scotchlok taps will corrode and fail within a year or two.
You can buy some tooling and learn. That's how I did it.
Harnessworx makes a brand new dual tank harness to retrofit the Pollack Motorized valve into the earlier trucks. It's ready to plug in with a new REAL Pollack valve, all of the grommets, obsolete connectors, and other pieces you need already assembled. Nice, clean, and easy. You can order them without the valve... inquire on the price without it.
If you have a China-made parts store valve I'd take it back and get the real McCoy made by Pollack that
gmachinz includes with the harness.
Here is the thread where he offered them for sale...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=706027
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dukagora
I also don't have CAD and if I did, I don't know anything about that either. So I think that leaves me to doing my own wiring harness.
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The Kitchen table, a big sheet of paper, something close to a straight edge ruler, a couple #2 pencils or a bunch of colored pencils, and a big pink eraser (not for colored pencils) works too. I was just offering the DXF files if that would've been helpful...
The point of drawing it is to put what you are doing on paper so you can see it and see whether there are errors.
Something like this drawing I made of the stock motorized valve wiring with contrasting colors to illustrate wire functions.
You can shortcut drawing the whole thing... download and print this PDF of the above image and write on it with pencil...
Motorized Early REV B.pdf
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dukagora
I think there are still some questions left for me.
I attached 2 pictures. One is the toggle switch from the video I saw. I assume this wiring is right. If so, how do I attach the 2 wires that will feed pins D and E on the weatherpak? The other picture is what I believe to be the green wire that originally fed the solenoid valve. This would have power on it that gets transfered to it FROM the original switch connector and would originally get that power from the pink wire with black tracer right? Also, this Pink wire with black tracer appears to go only to the old connector switch. It does not feed power to anything else right?
https://www.online-led-store.com/2-w...orzacclbrxxxa6
I need what is in the link right? I’m using that for reference in the paragraph below.
The pink wire with black tracer will need to be removed from the old connector and routed to this weather pack right? Or does it go to the toggle switch as power to the toggle switch, which would then have 2 wires coming off of it to the 2 wire weather pack that goes to the fire wall, and out to D and E with those 2 wires being wired to maybe the bottom terminals on the toggle switch? You don’t mention removing pink with black tracer from the old connector in your response so I assume I am not understanding this portion of the process. The only wire left in the original switch connector would then be green.
How do I make sure I route RH to A and LH to B? I know this isn't critical as long as sending units for those tanks match but I like the sound of running it that way, especially if it’s typical.
Does any of that make sense? I did draw things out from the connector, but in doing so, I realized I am just not sure how the toggle switch side of this will work. Which wire should go where on the toggle switch etc. I am using the picture as my platform for how to wire the switch, with no understanding of how to get it all wired to that switch correctly. One side would be for LH and one side for RH with the two middle terminals likely being the power from or to the valve to switch its position for each tank.
And FINALLY, the video says to send power to the toggle switch directly from the battery with a 10 amp inline fuse. IF I can use the pink wire with black tracer for power to the toggle switch like I thought I could, it runs into the, sorry if the terminology is wrong, bulkhead connector and should already have a fuse, so do I still need to do the inline fuse and power from the battery directly?
Ok one more thing. Gauge wire size. I bought way too much wiring in 16 gauge for this project. Should I be too worried if I cant get the same gauge 2 wire weather pack from a local store? So say they have 12 or 14 gauge but nothing smaller. Is that an issue? |
I wouldn't use a toggle switch if your truck had the dual tanks originally. Just get the $13 Delco D7809C switch and massage the rectangular hole to fit it. If you're building your own harness it's much easier to work with too.
As long as your pigtails are not smaller gauge wire than the harness wires you can safely use them. The smaller number gauges are larger wires... 12ga is larger than 14ga or 16ga. It doesn't look as clean and neat as connector terminated wires or the same gauge pigtails but they can be used.