[C10Coloradoguy]

Ok, "A result". Hasn't quite answered my question but we are much closer to finding the cause.

So, I took the board off the firewall and checked the back of all the lines. No burns. But it allowed me to verify where each wire should be wired to. So, after some minor rewiring, here is where we are:

Orange 12V fused wire on the headlight switch is wired directly to the block. This is at the back of the PARK LT 10 amp fuse (red) on the block. I verified this on page 3 of the AAW instructions where this wire on the switch plug is clearly marked "Fused Battery Feed (for parking lamps) from dash harness (ORANGE)". The orange "brake switch" wire is wired independently to the brake switch as originally intended by the AAW harness. The mystery 12V fused orange wire is now wired directly to the orange side of the dome light and the white ctsy ground wire is wired directly to the white wire on the dome light and the light is in the "clip".

Incidentally, I did take VV's advice and checked for continuity between the orange and white wires directly from the headlight switch since I had access to both of the bare wires. I was really really hoping it would show 0.00 ohms when I pulled the switch but no, no such luck.

So, after hooking the battery back up, I reached in and twisted the headlight knob to the left. No dome light. I would come to realize that I hadn't put the BRK/CTSY fuse back in (I only have 2 left) but that was before "the result". The dome light wasn't working because there was no fuse in place to allow it to but when I pulled the headlight switch to first position: POP A nice clear short on the fuse block popping the PARK LT 10 amp fuse.

So we are back to the orange wire coming directly from the headlight switch giving us a result. Why though is it popping fuses? And would it had made a difference if I had the BRK/CTYS 10 amp fuse in place?