[OrrieG]

I ran the truck with the 4" blocks for 10 years and around 50K miles without any problems. When I did the conversion I was told 4" was the max. I used a Rancho lift kit. The blocks will get it level, I use air shocks to keep it level when loaded, run them with minimum air when not loaded.

I fabed the PS plate based on one I saw at a car show. The 74 series frames bend in at the front so on the stock 59 frame the box will be about 2-3 inches outboard. This means that the tire will hit the pitman arm when you are at extreme right (clockwise) steering and the turning radius is reduced. Not a problem during normal driving but can make parallel parking and turning around on backwood roads interesting. The factory setup comes with a stop nut that you will need to weld an extension on depending on the size tires you run to keep the tire from rubbing.

I found a 74 and measured the distance from the axle center line to the pitman arm shaft(horizontal), axle CL to bottom of the pitman arm (vertical) & the angle of the shaft to the frame. I then made some 3/8" thick cardboard templates and mocked up the plate. It lines up with one stock frame hole, two are drilled in the frame and the upper hole just goes through the bracket. I used through bolts to attach everything, the threads in the steering box were starting to strip out. I will take some good photos next time I work on the truck. I will also see if I can find you the original measurements and template. Important thing is to make sure the pitman arm moves in a horizontal plane.

I will also photo the crossmember bracket too and take some measurements.

I looked at you photos and saw you have the front torsion bar on it. Have you figured out if the horseshoe brackets will mount to the frame ok and the bar will not interfere with the radiator or pulleys? I ran mine with out the bar but think I will add it this rebuild. I have the same cab corner and hinge pocket rust to deal with on mine too.