Quote:
Originally Posted by spacedebris
Seems like everyone has you pretty well covered.. However, something I would recommend when going to look at it. Take a soft refrigerator magnet wrapped in a kleenex with you. The kleenex prevents scratches. Use it to check for bondo under that paint. Nice paint can sometimes hide nightmares. Check the lower rear of the front fenders, rockers, lower pillers, around the top of the windshield/rain gutter, and the rear corners of the hood. Those areas are the most prone to rust. Also make sure that you check under the floor mat if possible at the condition of the floors. And dont be afraid to crawl underneath and visually inspect things like breaklines and fuel lines for leaks, transmission leaks, wheel cylinders for weeping. Even if you only find small things, they may help in negotiating a better price  |
Roger that on the magnet. I'm already bringing an extra shirt since I plan on crawling all up under the truck. I usually end up spending enough time under my vehicles to make sure I really want to know what I'm getting into down there! Haha.
I have an engine question for the group:
1. Since the 230/250 that is in there is not the original motor, how can I verify it came out of another truck? I assume passenger cars and 1 ton trucks had different cam profiles, so it would be nice to know what I've got there.
2. Aren't the motor mounts different for the 292 and 230? Anything to pay attention to to identify that swap was done correctly? How hard is it to set up the mounts to go back to a 292 in the future?
3. (Only applicable if I buy it) I've been trying to do my homework on the carb situation (292 carb -maybe- on the 230/250). I read the venturi on the 292 carb is larger, reducing the air velocity, but increasing the air volume, and likely resulting in a lean condition, not a rich one. I'm going to keep an eye out for flat spots. But my question is: any way to take advantage of the increased CFM of the carb on a 230? Can I just increase jet sizes to get the fuel volume closer, or am I looking at a waste of time even trying? I'm assuming that doing some exhaust work, and adding an x pipe to help with exhaust scavenging would help increase the draw of the engine, increasing the air velocity coming in.
I just want to make sure I keep the low end torque for a big truck like this. My guess is going to a 2bbl will be the easier way to get improvement, but that involves an adapter plate or a different manifold and a new carb...and that = $$. I'll go pull a correct 230/250 carb before I would decide to do all that.