[dsraven]

yup, with Ogre on this one. even new cars with wind whistles etc will get the knee on the door and bend the upper section to bend the door into submission.
like said earlier up, problems can be attributed to:
aftermarket door?
aftermarket hinges?
previous body damage?
hard working history of the truck?
door(s) not the one(s) that came with the truck from factory?
door hinge mounting plates were bent/rusted/repaired at some point in their history and so the original geometry could be "off a bit"?

long story short, do what you have to do to make the door seal and the gaps be ok without getting too close to paint on paint when the doors open after a few bumps in the road and some parking lot entrance twisting of the frame back and forth. remember the cab is rubber mounted at the rear and sitting on a metal on metal pivot (basically) at the front, then the rad support is sitting on rubber but the fenders are bolted to the "pivoting" cab. you gotta leave some room for flex. especially if you plan to drive the truck a lot on uneven surfaces, not just on and off the trailer and up the showroom floor ramp. they are sorta like a kids teeter totter, the cab front mount being the pivot because it is metal on metal and the rad support and rear cab mount being the flexible up and down part. because the fenders are bolted to the cab but allowed to flex some at their forward mount that means the door gap to fender can possibly move. get the door fitting the opening first then adjust the fender to fit the door. some shims added under the front cab mount or under the rad support or rear cab mount may be required to accomplish a passable door to fender gap. I have also seen guys bending the aftermarket hinges to get a decent door fit/seal and door to cowl fitment. get the door to fit the opening without a latch in place, then install the door latch and adjust, that is so the latch doesn't pull the door in or out or up/down when fitting the door, then install the door rubber. some door rubber is not very flexible so with those seals the doors are sometimes to tight to close the door properly. I suggest to use soffseal or other soft door rubber for those because it/they is more compressible (?) than some of the cheaper generic ones out there. also be aware that the hinges have the bolts on the door pillar, that are easily visibly when the door is open, but also have a couple hidden bolts deeper in the back end of the hinge to the front side of the pillar. if those areas where the holes are were replaced possibly the holes will need a bit of slotting to get a proper adjustment, that would mean the deep part of the hinge could be moved to allow some angle change to the hinge which would allow the door to pivot closer or further away from the body. make sense? end of day try to get the hinge pins to line up in the same plane so they don't fight each other causing premature wear.

I have a couple of sets of original doors (3 sets). one set fits my cab not bad, not awesome. the other sets are a series of way outta whack for my cab. none were the doors that came with my cab. doors were tweaked at the factory to fit the cab they left with. fenders as well. same scenario with the fenders I have (a couple sets of originals).

over and out, roger, 10-4?