[dsraven]

that should work with a little extra stuff to tidy up as well. I would do the soup can spiral on the tubing attached to the bottom of the valve. just so the tubing is all lower than the valve is instead of going up past and then coming down into the valve which creats a high spot in the tubing before the valve. then do the 90 deg fitting and another soup can spiral on the lines attached to the top of the valve. the spirals give some extra tubing for repairs if needed as well as some room for body flex etc.
when you bleed the brakes start with a bench bleed of the master cyl, then go to the prop valve and loosen the tubing in the upper fittings like you would if it was a bleeder screw. that should help get the air out up to that point. when all good then do the furthest away wheel and then the second furthest away wheel and so forth till you have clean, fresh fluid at each bleeder and no air bubbles. remember to keep the master full so you don't suck in any air bubbles and have to start all over again. the pedal should be hard when done, no spongy feeling.