[Kawabuggy]

Rollerizing the gear train is a great way to prolong the life of the unit in high performance applications, or where towing regularly, or when towing heavy loads frequently. IMO, it is not needed for 95% of most daily driven vehicles that rarely see abuse. We do it at my shop on Stage 3 and above units. It is typically a LOT of work machining everything, and assembling to check clearances as you go. We use a lathe, and a mill, for this type of work.

Lately, I've gotten to the point where we leave everything under the center support alone, and just rollerize everything between the pump, and the center support, and make certain that NO LOAD from the front of the unit is being applied to anything under the center support. This means the forward drum, O/D planetary set, and direct drum are floated on bearings and supported OFF of the sun gear tube, and the intermediate shaft. Essentially we are floating the forward, direct, and O/D planet set on bearings and isolating that load into, or onto, the center support, which then transmits that load to the case by way of the fretting ring. Doing it this way insures that the planet thrust washer, and selective washer are seeing significantly reduced loads. We are putting a bearing on BOTH sides of the forward clutch hub. On stage 4 and above, we will then rollerize everything under the center support, shore up the planetary clearance, and put the roller bearing between case & output shaft. IMO, just doing the "top" side components (between pump & center support) is more beneficial than messing with everything under the center support. Significantly less machine work for outstanding longevity. I have, to date, never had a unit come back with any significant wear, or any damage, due to these modifications. In fact, the only one I've had come back was due to water intrusion into the unit. When we checked clearances compared to when it was first assembled, and built, it gained less than .004" in end clearance and the planet thrust washer looked brand new still.

One thing I will mention, if you are working on this unit you MUST vacuum test the AFL valve in the valve body, or if you don't have a vacuum test stand, and the unit has 100K miles or more, then install the Sonnax valve, or ream and install an over-size valve. If anyone needs a valve body reamed, I can ream and install the O/S valves and ship the VB to you. I will need your old one back as a core though. Or, you can ship me yours, I'll ream it and install the valve and ship back to you. This valve, along with damaged/clogged AFL screens, are responsible for a LOT of problems. Also, these units after rebuild may exhibit TCC clutch drag.. Be proactive in your rebuild and take steps to insure you don't have this issue. There are Sonnax valves that will preclude this issue, or there are manual changes you can make to your pump if you have it apart that will accomplish the same thing. Always recommended to replace the pump gears, pump bushing, reverse boost valve, when you have the pump apart.