Quote:
Originally Posted by dmjlambert
When I ordered my remanufactured Quadrajet from National Carburetors, I just selected the model year and engine size of my truck. Then I followed up with a phone call to tell them I wanted one with an electric choke. They built one for me with the throttle linkage for my year truck, but the rest was 1985-86 truck's carburetor body with an electric choke. Their sales staff is very knowledgeable and I was happy with the experience.
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Sold, it looks like they have one in stock for a decent price.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmjlambert
I think any filter you add belongs on the low pressure side of the fuel pump, and on the low pressure side is the only place where there are rubber hoses on the truck. If you have any doubts about the fuel pump or think it has huge amounts of crud in it, the fuel pump is cheap and fairly easy to replace.
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I actually replaced this a year or two ago, the one that was on it developed a leak. Wasn't too bad I guess. I know this does not mean that it shouldn't get replaced again if the fuel/crud is that bad.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmjlambert
The fuel tank is also fairly easy to replace. If you want to investigate, you can pull it out, turn the collar that holds the fuel sender and remove the fuel sender and have a good look at it, empty the fuel out and have a look inside and drain any crud out of it through the neck and through the fuel sender hole. There was a sock filter on the end of the fuel pickup line at the bottom of the tank, and that is replaceable. Some people have put vinegar and a steel chain or a bunch of nuts and bolts or gravel in there, and swished it around to clean theirs up.
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If I am going to pull it out, and find crud, I guess I'd like to replace. Of course the piggy bank is getting light, so nice to know there is a potential cleaning option.
Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer#99
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Thanks Geezer#99. That's a nice concise list of common problems. I also picked up Cliff's rebuild book on Amazon. One day, I will probably take a look at mine, for now I think I am safer with a rebuild by a pro.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AussieinNC
To simplify the fuel system issues I would not be using the saddle tanks at all until I know for sure they are not full of crud.
I would be installing a new in cab tank with new fuel sender seals and body seal, and routing a new fuel line from new tank to fuel pump.
Bypass all the other tanks for the time being.
Change the fuel pump...buy an AC Delco one if you can find one...had lots of issues reported on Chinese built pumps from Autozone and others...actually look on the pump for country of origin labels...
Add a metal cased inline fuel filter after the pump...and enjoy driving your truck for a while...
When you are ready, you can then check out the saddle tanks etc...if you dont intend to do long haul runs in this truck, I would be removing the saddle tanks totally...
Standard tank holds 20 gallons...plenty of gas for normal runs and cruises.
You could also go crazy and install an aftermarket tank behind the rear axle and get rid of in cab tank totally...LMC has some suggestions in their parts manuals...usually something like a Blazer tank...choices abound...but I do like the KISS approach...Keep It Stupid Simple
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I was thinking the same thing, somehow get the saddle tanks out of the picture for now. Got to work through the logistics of disconnecting and draining.
I always hoped to someday move the tank out of the cab to behind the axle, looked into many options and builds that did it. But I'm with you, keep it simple for now.
Thanks for all the help guys!