Making progress and admire your persistence.
On the spot weld cutter I use a center punch, that helps keep the cutter from walking.
On the HFT butt welding clamps, I've found if you smooth'em out on a belt sander so they have a thinner lower edge they are easier to remove when you spot weld.
Spot welding sometimes draws (shrinks) the metal closer together and will test your patience to the greatest extremes when trying to pull those cursed little things out.
And put tape or something on one side of the squared rectangle to act as a handle and to keep if from falling out when you can't reach it when tightening.
I had to pie cut my cab corners to get a proper fit. #273
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Some place someone mentioned that some cab corners are made to fit over existing sheet metal and other are made to replace the sheet metal.
Not sure who said it but I believe that to be true after I messed with mine.
This is the thread, from theastronaut, I used to restore my gauges.
John Glenn does an excellent job walking you through the process.
Your cluster may be different than his but the basics are all there.
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Im sure you are aware that you can purchase replacement door skins.
On my build I've stretched the cab 5". That means both doors are 5" longer than stock.
After 8 tried I finally got my door skin to work on the drivers side. Making them correctly was the biggest challenge.
Long story short, I had a Toyota in my younger days. 2 weeks after owning the truck the neighbor lady backed into my door. My dad caked it with bondo, passenger door shut with a tinny clink, drivers door shut with a giant heavy thud. After a couple of months of constantly opening and closing the door the bondo cracked. My dad caked it on. 1/2"-3/4" I believe. I didn't know, I was a kid.
You door body work looks pretty good. A body man from the swap meet says that if its 1/8th" or less its acceptable. I personally don't like "mud" but its a necessary evil.
Keep up the good work. Not fun at times but the payoff is great when driving down the road.