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Old 07-30-2017, 04:13 PM   #20
'63GENIII
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: San Carlos, Ca.
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Re: Starter problems and now flex plate

Quote:
Originally Posted by nonstop View Post
First thing I can see is the ground for the battery cable. Is it up against raw or painted metal?

You may want to take this opportunity to upgrade battery cables as well. I like 2/0 if available, or at least get the biggest ones you can find at the parts stores.

General rule of thumb is you can't have too large of cables, especially ground.
Agreed. I tend to avoid the parts store cables myself. They all seem to be #4 awg. I like to make my own using DLO or welding cable that is easily found at any welding supply. The WS will have all the necessary ends and the cables are not that hard to fab up. I picked up a 25' cut of #1 cable and have been using it on everything from the cars to my old Shovelhead. They withstand the heat, have low voltage drop under load and you can pump a TON more current through them than conventional low strand count parts store cable.

Grounds. Body to frame, engine to body, engine to battery. I probably have too many on the '63 after not tightening the main engine ground and having the starter ground back though the oil pressure line and almost setting the cab on fire. Tightened up the main and added a bunch more straps. Have to be tight and clean. Cant stress this enough.

For the starter I used a stock big block type with the cast iron nose, a brace and heat shield. The brace - you'd be surprised how much a starter can move when engaged. I was. Works great every time. Going on 7 or 8 years now. I used the same one for small blocks when I had them. Not sure of the brand but it wasnt O'Reillys. I always get them from my local indy parts guy. Better quality I think.

I did read somewhere on here that every time an engine is shut down, it shuts down in the same spot in the crank revolution. This means that when you go to start it, the first contact point will be in the same place every time. I think this also makes it crucial to have your starter (no matter which one you use) shimmed right to give the best chance at full engagement and less chance of wear in the ring gear. Just my .02 on this point.
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'63 k15 long step
Vortec 7.4 - L29 Blackbear tune, Five 0 Motorsports injectors, Chris Straub Cam, NV4500, divorced 205
52" front and 63" rear spring swap
D44 / 14bff - disc axles
Milemarker 9K and 10.5K hydraulic winches

63" & B52 Spring Install http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ng+swap+thread


NV4500 Reverse Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=reverse+build

L29 - 7.4 Vortec Build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&highlight=L29
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