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Originally Posted by cgrocen
I have always wondered how the offset of the new power steering box from the frame would affect the geometry of the steering linkage and the centering of the gears in the steering box.
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I added PS to my 1965 several years ago and noticed the loss of steering wheel turns to the right while maneuvering in my back yard. I did some reading and realized that the center link was pulled left by the new steering box. I then read somewhere how to regain the lost turns of the steering. Simply center the steering box and then adjust the tie rods to get the tires pointing straight ahead again. Then off to the alignment shop . . . . and done. So I did that.
I have some old school hot rod mechanic friends who suggested the spline delete. I gotta say it’s better and cheaper than adjusting the tie rods. No alignment needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgrocen
It seems that you recognized this, and addressed the issue by grinding the splines on the output of the steering box to accomodate that. Do you think that a person could have taken a small triangal file and filed 4 splines into the flat areas on the pitman arm? I suppose it is 6 of one and half a dozen of another.
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The flat areas on the gear box output shaft are “low” flat surfaces. The pitman arm has 4 “high” flat surfaces. I would find it technically more difficult to accurately create splines than delete splines. That’s just me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgrocen
Also, because the steering shaft does not line up with the power steering box, you added a u-joint to the input steering shaft. It seems that the rag joint now acts as a second u-joint. I am wondering if a second u-joint could have been added in-line thus taking any flexing out of the rag joint? Any thoughts about my two questions?
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This is a great question. Yes, the rag joint acts as a U-joint. It always did act as a U-joint but it now has a bit more angular movement than before. Vendors sell 30 spline U-joints (see pic) that are designed to slip right onto the steering box input stem. You would then buy a 3/4” DD shaft to use between the U-joints. However, that arrangement eliminates the safety feature of the telescoping lower shaft. Having 2 U-joints is definitely safer than factory.
One idea is to remove the rag joint and flanges from the Squarebody telescoping lower shaft. That should leave you with the round section at the bottom half of the telescoping shaft and it should have a 3/4” round ID. Then weld a 3” piece of the discarded 3/4” round factory shaft to a 30 spline U-joint. Insert the other end into the round portion of the telescoping shaft and weld in place. Now you have 2 U-joints and the shaft will still telescope if needed.