Thread: Restoring Rusty
View Single Post
Old 05-19-2018, 10:47 PM   #5437
MikeB
Senior Member
 
MikeB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,435
Re: Restoring Rusty

Don't just assume she needs longer pushrods. I'd suggest checking for optimal rocker arm-to-valve stem tip geometry. For info, google "Comp Cams valvetrain geometry."

It's kinda hard to check geometry with hydraulic lifters, but you can use a lightweight test spring to make a very light "witness" mark w/o compressing the lifter. Geometry is less critical with stamped rockers that slide across the valve stem tip than with roller tipped rockers, but still, you don't want to chance wearing down the side of a valve stem tip.

As I recall you have stamped rockers. If that's the case be sure the rocker arms are not hitting the retainers, and that you are not using guide plates with self-aligning rockers.

Also, here are some race engine builder comments on what Edelbrock says about the E-Street heads not being suitable for roller cams:

https://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=53337

Many of the guys at SpeedTalk.com are engine builders, head porters, and cam grinders. They are WAY over my head most of the time.
__________________
Mike
1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 34 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes.
1982 C10 SWB -- sold
1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it!
1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming.
Retired as a factory automation products salesman.
Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop.
Member here for 23 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!
MikeB is offline   Reply With Quote