[HAULIN' IT]

Originally Posted by WannaBe68

Thought I had a pic of it in primer, but couldn't fine it. The last picture is the same old faded horn button that I cleaned up and repainted saddle. Used a blue pen to touch up the bow-tie. Turned out pretty good!
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Something I see on Wannabe's photos that has a direct effect on how well the repairs last or don't last is the tapering or lack of tapering of the plastic...Hate to say it Wannabe, but what you have done looks like the "won't last" in my opinion from many years of autobody repair.

Instead of digging a straight 90* ditch & filling it up with the epoxy, you want rolled, tapered edges so the glue has a horizontal ramp to stick to. Each crack should have around a 1/2" long taper on each side of the crack (which means some will run into the next one) starting at the metal rod & the very top should be rounded as well.
If you think about...it simply makes sense. The re-cracking happens right along the edge of the original wheel & epoxy...not in the middle of the epoxy. You have a plastic ring with a 1/4" to 1/2" thick item that is "butt" glued together only relying on the vertical surface from the metal ring upward. With "proper" tapering, you will have a wedge-like "plug" on each side of the metal ring with a long, horizontal surface supporting the sections. It is like most things...it will take more time, more material, but the outcome will be better.

Fusor 100 is my plastic epoxy of choice. My Two Cents, Lorne