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Re: 1972 SWB Build
If you do the conversion u-joints, it'll let you keep the driveshaft if you change the rearend later. But I see where you're going with it. If you keep the 1310 pinion yoke, you're really only limited by it, not the rest of the combo. You can always have a new driveshaft made if you change the rearend parts later.
I don't know what effect it has, but I've been told it's best to match the u-joint size on both ends of the driveshaft. I think they said it had something to do with balance and harmonics. It should also be on the same plane or alignment at both ends, not turned 90 degrees along the rotational axis. But, obviously it can be built anyway someone wants it. Personally, I wouldn't have a 1410 and 1310 u-joint on the driveshaft. I'd run the two conversion joints, but that's me. It'll work either way, but if...(this is a big IF for me since I don't really know what it would do) ...If you end up with driveline vibrations this would be my first suspect.
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