Quote:
Originally Posted by dave`12
Here is a pic of the terminal strip I got.
I would like sent my new 10 gauge output from the alternator to one of the large posts. To the other large post, I would like to put the old 12 gauge output wire that goes to the junction. This way, I could avoid extra wiring and cutting up the junction.
Then the fans go to the screws in the middle.
Cool?
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The strip in your picture looks like it will work well. Attaching the old connecter is something you will have to do, but!, You won't need the old alternator output wire since you've replaced it with a 10 gauge wire, so it's basically a dead wire now. The one from the battery is absolutely necessary since it's a charging wire for the battery and it's critical for the ammeter to work. It's size and length is programed into the specifications of the ammeter gauge.
The other red wire is the cab feed wire and you can use it to feed the firewall block. It's a 12 gauge wire which should be adequate for the fuse and instrument panel especially if you convert the headlight power from the headlight switch to to a couple of relays on the radiator support.
I would concur with DJLambert's idea about the oil pressure switch to shut down the engine, but is it necessary? If you are running an electrical fuel pump possibly, but the mechanical pump is going to stop fuel flow when the engine quits, and if you lose oil pressure your gauge will show that, and I assume you will be watching those. Modern vehicles use warning lights so they might benefit more than our old trucks JMO.
I like Vince1"s idea about the CS 130 or the 144 especially about getting the wiring plug. They are a bolt in for the SI 12 but try yours and if you decide to go to the CS it is easier than the conversion you have just done. In fact you can buy an adapter that will plug into the SI end and then will plug into the CS alternator and it has the extra resistor installed. I think they run about $25. The best part is that they were used on just about every Gm vehicle made since 1994.