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Old 06-28-2011, 08:00 AM   #9
MARKDTN
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 2,134
Re: Gen 3 Drive By Wire cruise control HOW TO

Quote:
Originally Posted by HarleyHauler View Post
Bringing this thread back hoping someone can answer, as I am looking for the same info.

Anyway to hook up cruise control on a drive by cable? (Instead of DBW)
I put that style cruise control on my '83 TPI truck and another TPI vehicle. I don't exactly know what years it covers. Maybe late 80s-early 2000s non-vacuum, cable on TB? It is very simple. You basically just need a 4000 pulse per mile signal, brake signal, and power and ground. On the first one, I made my own harness using the '96 Caprice shop manual. On the second I used a stand-alone harness from an early '90s pickup truck. If you have a junkyard with these trucks, that is the direction I would reccomend. Using that harness, here is what I did:
1-mount the unit and hook it to the throttle body. Those CC units are used in a variety of cars with a variety of cables. Hunt around and find what will fit best. I have a Vortec truck unit in 1 vehicle and a Olds Ciera unit in the truck.
2-Hook up power and ground. Probably have to change the end on the power so it can plug into the fuse box. I think ground went to the block.
3-Get the brake switch from the donor vehicle and splice it into the brake light side. (orange and white wires). The brake pedal signal is needed, but is opposite of the brake light. Brake light is open with pedal in non-pushed position. Cruise needs power with pedal not pushed.
4-Hook up pulse signal. On speed-density TPI and early TBI, this is the same signal as the transmission/back of speedometer generates. Mass air TPI is 2000 pulses/mile and late TBI, Vortec, etc. is like 40,000. All of these have an output on the ECM/PCM for this 4K/mi signal regardless of the input. In my opinion, don't tap into the input, just get this as an output of the computer. On a non-computer vehicle you could possibly use a 4k/mile pulse generator off the speedo cable, but I have never tried it.
5-switches. If you can find a stalk to fit your vehicle, you can use it and not cut anything. If you can't and want to just put switches, the basics of operation of this system are simple. You need an on/off switch and a double acting momentary switch. The on/off is just that. The momentary gives 12V one way and you get set/coast and 12V the other way is for resume/accelerate. GM is very good at keeping wire colors standard, so if you can find a shop manual for any of these, you can get the colors.

If you have any questions, I will try and answer them.
__________________
'83 K20-TPI
'73 C10
'79 C10-ex-diesel(SOLD)
'07 Tahoe(Son driving)
'14 Suburban-DD
'71 C10-current project
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