[ah_5500]

Thanks for the flow of responses.
I removed the rear drums and they were very black, cobwebbed, and dusty. The RR is the one hanging up and it took some hammer persuasion to get it off due to the shoes applying a lot of force on the drum. I adjusted it in and cleaned it all with brake cleaner (trying to avoid mass amounts in the shoes) then clicked them both out some. The RR I adjusted out a lot I felt but it continued to spin very easily and will rotate about 2.5-3 times which I thought 1.5 times is normal?
I drove about a mile down the road it seemed better but the RR locked again (once) and in the parking lot I it was easy to make it do it. It doesn't seem near as bad as it was but still very easily locks/hangs.

Im thinking that I might get new shoes and drums for both sides to eliminate those issues and be preventative...but I think there will still be and issue because it locks up so easily.

Questions
- How will I know if my lines need to be switched between the master and valve/block.
- Whats the difference between a prop valve and distribution block? I thought what I bought is like a factory style non adjustable prop valve?
- If I remove the rear line and push the plunger in will I feel it stop? Will it move easy? I don't want to damage anything.
- Should I only have one front and one rear out of the prop valve? it seems like having two front lines coming from two separate prop valve locations would not be equal pressure to each front wheel.
Thanks