Quote:
Originally Posted by ah_5500
Questions
- How will I know if my lines need to be switched between the master and valve/block.
- Whats the difference between a prop valve and distribution block? I thought what I bought is like a factory style non adjustable prop valve?
- If I remove the rear line and push the plunger in will I feel it stop? Will it move easy? I don't want to damage anything.
- Should I only have one front and one rear out of the prop valve? it seems like having two front lines coming from two separate prop valve locations would not be equal pressure to each front wheel.
Thanks
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-That all depends on which master cylinder you have. Unfortunately, it will have to be removed to find out which side is the primary . The primary side builds a bit of pressure first, and this goes to the rear drums.
-The distribution block is what is located under the master cylinder. It's job is to prevent your rear brakes from locking up under panic stops, and also houses a switch to turn on the brake warning light if it notices a difference in pressures between the front and rear brakes. It has a built in proportioning valve. Sometimes guys will put a variable proportioning valve for the rear brakes but you wont need this.
-If you remove the rear line (assuming it's the primary side) and push the plunger in, you will bottom out the internal rear brake piston in the master cylinder, then your front brakes will apply. If everything is working properly, the brake malfunction light on the dash should also come on.
-Some prop valves only have two outputs ( front and rear brakes) GM used two outputs for the front brakes and only one for the rear on our trucks.
It's a simple system, and after reading your last post it sounds like replacing the drums and shoes will most likely fix your issue. While you have everything apart, make sure your wheel cylinders are not seized or sticking.
Also, don`t get any contaminants on the new brake shoes. Any oil on there could issues.