Quote:
Originally Posted by PaPaStewySnipes
I use that mix as a converter for pits and any junk I can not get. Yes krud kutter the must for rust at walmart. Works great for heavy applications as well. Simply more of the krud cutter and make a strong mix of kk, water, vinegar and dip item in it while you sleep. I use a wire wheel on my drill or a wire brush before the treatment for few min to remove heavy flaking. KK has phosphoric acid in it which does convert rust and remove it as well. It is not a supper strong mix, tends to be a more user friendly rust remover. so I use it with vinegar and water to make the job easy. I shoot the parts with some rustoleum rust reformer to help finish any pits I may have missed. Kk will etch the metal if you leave it submersed in a mix with only water for to long.
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Awesome thanks. I didn't know it had phosphoric acid. I'll score some for sure, follow your recipe.
If you're ever concerned about that acid BTW, I was just mentioning a baking soda bath. I use it with distilled water. It will leave the part fully black, or more a dark gray, but that comes off easily with a brush or scouring pad. That's how I do it anyway. I'm going to finish everything in bulk, or so is the plan.
You move pretty fast, BTW.
Not sure I can answer your question about that pin (aka push rod), but I would say yes, disconnect that rod to remove the booster, because it's part of it. If you need too many notes on that top end
, or anything else brake, I've got them. Don't forget to trigger the "primer button" on your combination valve when you bleed the brakes, assuming that's your application. I bled my brakes once, didn't know anything about it. I had brakes anyway, but I understand I did it wrong.
Also per one of our members, for a newly installed booster: "Depress the pedal while the engine is off to use up the vacuum. Hold the pedal and start the engine. The pedal should drop 1-2 inches if the booster is good."