View Single Post
Old 09-26-2017, 03:47 PM   #5
theastronaut
Registered User
 
theastronaut's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Anderson SC
Posts: 3,868
Re: Minimal for painting?

A wide variety of sanding blocks will be needed. A durablock set is a decent start, but lately I've switched over to acrylic (lexan/plexiglass) blocks. For the price of a Durablock set you can get a few different small sheets in different thicknesses of acrylic and cut your own blocks to the sizes you'll need. Round the edges so they don't dig in, and use a couple strips of duct or gaffers tape in a "T" shape on the back side as handles. The hard surface will make the sandpaper cut flatter and there will be less ripples. It'll also cut faster since there is no foam backing to absorb any high spots. I've noticed that the sandpaper wears out quicker since switching over. PVC sticks can be used for concave areas if they're straight enough (top of the bedside on a 73-87 for example), or if it's not straight a peice of lexan that's thin enough to flex and fit the shape will work.

Here's a decent article on making your own blocks. I don't like backing them with foam though, that defeats the purpose of having a flat block. Softer foam blocks can be used once the rougher shaping is done, and you're moving on to the paint prep/smoothing part of the job.

http://www.antiquecar.com/bodyshop/b...ck_sanding.php


Here's a set on ebay to give you and idea of the tape handles. The tape handles let the blocks flex with the surface of the truck.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1323162...=ps&dispItem=1



You'll need mixing cups for the primer and paint.

Spreaders and something non-porous to mix filler and spot putty on.

A few cans of cheap black rattle can paint for guide coat.

36, 80, 180 dry sandpaper (I use sticky back Mirka) for blocking the filler and primer. Use rough paper for doing the rough bodywork. You're "shaping" the panel, so you need to use rough paper to get the shape right. Smoother paper will not shape, it only smooths the shape that's already there.

280, and 500 wet sandpaper (if spraying non metallic base) or 800 (metallic) for wetsanding the primer. This is "smoothing" paper for after the shaping is done. The 280 will get the orange peel out of the last coats of primer/surfacer, and the 5/800 will make it smooth enough to paint over.

Two guns. One with a large tip (2.0-2.5) for filler primer, and a 1.3 or 1.4 gun for epoxy and base/clear. Filters for both.

Good lighting so you can see what you're doing.

Something to keep moisture out of the air lines.
theastronaut is offline   Reply With Quote