Quote:
Originally Posted by moregrip
Very nice work!
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Thanks buddy,
So here is a tip for anyone using slick sand or probably any polyester primer. If you lay down any epoxy before hand give it a few days to really cure. I waited 24 hours exactly and now that I am 99 percent done with the second blocking of the cab I realized that some of the slick sand was not really blocking smooth or feathering out properly. I put my finger nail to it and the epoxy was not fully cured which did not allow the slick sand to full cure. The top layer of S.S was hard but when it got thin close to the new epoxy you could scrape it off with your nail.
So now I am in the process of sanding off any of the slick I put over the new epoxy. So this was a huge mistake time wise, but good to know for the future. I already have about 4 hours into sanding the areas off so it feathers out into the the fully cured and sanded areas. You would think it would not take so long to sand it all off but when youre trying to make feather as nice as possible to the finished areas and then all of the areas in the door frame, well it just takes a long time i guess.
I probably need another few hours to finish it, then reapply the epoxy in the bare metal areas and just let it sit for a few days and then scuff and reapply the S.S
So a very good tip for anyone using this. I guess when they refer to the recoat window with epoxys and primers they are referring to laying another primer or base coat on top. Not a poly primer which uses a different type of hardener/activator, this is my guess.
Till next time
paul