Quote:
Originally Posted by RADustin
to avoid the stripes in the paint, always lead with a wet edge. the paint 'behind' your stroke will begin to dry, but you push the wet edge forward or across your panel to avoid any dry overspray. you can also mix the paint slower(for a warmer environment) to avoid this.
The low spots in your roof, assuming everything else was where it needs to be, probably needed to be stretched into place. So either hammer on dolly strikes to stretch it or some have success with a shrinking disc without the watch quench. It'll stretch a little.
a stud gun will not really stretch it. Any stretch you get is negated by the shrink the welded on stud causes.
While doing body work on my square and wanting to use the least amount of filler, I've found more times than not that the panels need to be stretched into a place instead of shrunk. Most body men just want to shrink and fill. So it's definitely a headache.
your progress looks nice though. Keep it up!
|
Thanks for the tips. With the roof I couldnt hammer and dolly unless i romved the skin which I did not want to do. In the end the work I did got me very close and I am confident it is not a plastic filler roof.
It seems whenever I use my shrinking disc I end up flattening the panel to the point it is below the panels natural curve. I feel like I am not getting it very hot. When I have watched videos guys seem to use it much longer and even more aggressive. I guess I just need more practice.
But thanks again for your tips!
Any idea about my shock situation? Every point I measure on each side of the frame is the same except for the distance from the shock mount to shock mount. The frame to the floor, frame to axle ect.. are all the same, basically exactly the same. Even the distance from the lower shock mount to the floor is the same side to side. I feel like I am really missing something with this.
Paul