Have been busy working a lot lately, but have updates nonetheless.
Made a change in direction with the LQ4, going with more power.
NASCAR 799 heads CNC ported by Wegner Motorsports. Del-West titanium intake and exhaust valves (stock 2.00 and 1.55 size). PSI Maxlife valve springs good for .630, hardened retainers, locks, and seats
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TSP MS3 Pro Cam 238/242 .600/.600 LSA 113
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LS2 flat top pistons and rods with floating pins to raise compression. They have 39k on them, I need to have the rods checked for size to ensure they are usable. If not I will get a new set or just get Scat I beam forged rods.
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Edelbrock 7139 intake
Edelbrock Pro-flo XT fuel rails
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Edelbrock 90mm TB (I've switched to DBC)
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FAST injectors (flow 42lb at 58psi) 0280155868
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ARP head studs
ARP 2000 rod bolts
ARP balancer bolt (and balancer bolt install tool)
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new Brian Tooley Racing trunnion upgrade to rockers (peace of mind)
new LS7 lifters and trays
lq4 oil cooler adapter block off
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pushrods are yet to be determined
Plug wires straight from China (pre-Trump taxed)
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Spectre air intake kit with MAF installed. I may paint this wrinkle black along with the valve covers.
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PSI wiring harness (EV1 injectors, DBC). Was going to redo my lq4 DBW harness but I sold it for $300 with PCM and TAC and pedal so that helped pay for a unused, pretty harness. Bought it for $475. Glad I did this, now I can focus on other things instead of wiring.
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Auto Meter gauges Ultra Lite II (MPH,Tach,Water,Oil Press,fuel, volts) and LS adapter kit
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2005 silverado radiator upper and lower hoses (not sure how they are going to fit over the stock radiator but we shall see) Everyone swears they work.
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LS2 timing chain
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T56 Tick speed bleeder
Have the tank mocked up. Ordered Aeromotive FPR and a bunch more AN fittings. Fuel leaks or possible fire problems is the LAST thing I want to worry about so I haven't gone cheap here. Only name brand AN fittings from tank all the way back to tank. (yes, I consider Summit name brand, they make great fittings)
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Finished stitch welding the stock rear control arms
Replaced Trailing arm bushings, track arm bushings, and front sway bar bushings with polyurethane. Also replaced all cab and radiator support bushings with polyurethane. Note to anyone else that may be as dumb as me....the trailing arm bushings only go in one way.
Getting out the old ones was a cinch, no smoke required. Just do the drill method, much cleaner in my opinion.
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Rebuilt the Saginaw steering box. If I may help anyone out there, if only the input shaft is leaking at top, ONLY replace the seals to fix that, even if you bought the whole rebuild kit. It's not impossible, but time consuming and difficult to rebuilt the box. The nylon rings are not easy to stretch correctly to install. It can be done, just not worth it if you don't have a problem there.
Lares 201 rag washer (steering coupler) is a perfect oem replacement for me, wahoo! Ordered through advanced auto and had them price match.
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If I end up painting or blasting anything, I'll need more air. Scored this compressor brand new never used for $300 on Craigslist. Thanks Craig!
Out with the old
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in with the new
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CC'd head chambers to verify for CR number crunching and verification. Looks like they are not milled. There was still a couple bubbles left, so that's why it's not right at 64.45cc) FYI amazon sells a nice acrylic buret for only 25 shipped.....or you can spend two or three times the amount for the same thing through a auto parts website.
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Lapping all valves.
Cheap Ebay spring compressor
will finish that when new tool arrives
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Cleaned and Painted lot of parts including T56
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