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Old 09-26-2010, 12:12 PM   #10
chevy_mike
Never Ending Projects
 
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,836
Re: ChevyMike's '65 Hot Rod C10

Been doing little things over the last month. Swapped out the speedo head unit as my original one freaked out and broke the needle off. Swapped in another bench seat I got of Craigslist. Installed a glove box liner.

Yesterday I tackled a bigger project to correct what a PO had done. They had put in 3" dropped coils up front and in doing so, I only had about 1.5" of travel (at the bump stop area) and it would bottom out all the time. Worn shocks didn't help.

I picked up a set of CPP modular (because they were out of the standard one) spindles with brackets for the stock brake calipers. My plan was to take my left over front springs from my '68 and cut them so between the dropped spindles and cut springs, I would be at the same height I was with the 3" springs.

Well, of course, this weekend we hit a heat wave and it's 90+ outside. I proceeded to take apart the pass. side first, since it was on the shade side. Since the dropped springs (and missing upper A-arm bump stop) did not put any pressure downward, I couldn't use the "hit the spindle with a hammer to pop the ball joints loose" method. I built a simple device that allows me to "expand" the ball joints from the stud side without damaging anything. Worked perfect. With the spindles out, I got the springs removed. Based on info I have read, it seemed like cutting a half coil off my stock '68 springs would be about a 1" drop. I mocked the springs/spindles on that side, put the wheel on and lowered it back down to check. Much to my surprise, it was only 1/4" lower than the driver side. Back up in the air and start tightening everything up.

I took this time to also replace two studs on the pass. side rotor. One was missing and another just didn't feel right. Figured this is the time to do it. Up to NAPA and got a couple new studs and also a new set of sway bar bushings, as the original ones were shot.

Came home and pressed in the new studs and finished up the pass. side. Proceeded to do the driver side. Once both sides were done regarding springs and spindles, I moved onto the shocks and the CPP renforcing bracket for the upper stud. I put a pair of KYB shocks from the '68 project I hadn't installed yet (and decided I am going with Bilstein's). I put the CPP brackup up and marked the holes to drill. Overall that went well on both sides. Now to tackle the sway bar bushing. Found having the supension drooped down would not allow everything to line up. I ended up loosely putting the A-arm brackets on then lower the truck down. Then I was able to get the frame side one to line up. Overall not too bad.

Took it out for a couple trips around the block and man, it's like a different truck!!! No more bottoming out, much smoother ride and way less body roll. Definitely 100% better and worth the work, even in the heat. Didn't take nearly as many pics but for the most part, there are a ton of right ups already on doing this. Here are a couple pics I did take.

All torn apart


3" dropped spring versus uncut stock springs. Took a half coil off the bottom


CPP modular spindle without the brake bracket on
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1965 C10 Panel, Tiki Express http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=506580 SOLD
1968 Chevy C10, Long, Fleetside, Hot Rod Hauler http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=313233 SOLD
1965 Chevy C10, Long, Fleetside, Hot Rod C10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=415702 SOLD


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