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Old 05-23-2009, 08:10 AM   #4
Chuck78
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 197
Re: freeze plug replacement difficulty? rear of driver's cyl. head GMC 305 V6

My buddy said "there's always the hillbilly method, just JB Weld it!" I think I'd rather fix it right the first time, but once I start, there's no going back.

I just have no idea the degree of difficulty that I'll have trying to get back in there with so little room to work and prying/chiseling out the old one.

If the block is pitted out, I suppose I could just jack it up from the rear to make sure no freeze drains out, and clean it out real well, blow it out, and throw in some JB Weld and let it dry and sand it out, and then install a new brass freeze plug.

Is there any type of sealant that I should use when hammering a brass plug into the block or head? I was told that they just get hammered in dry.

Again, any estimation on how hard this will be to get out with only 4-1/2" to the firewall would be greatly appreciated. Stinks cus I wanted to do the power brake booster/dual master/separate clutch master upgrade Monday, but if I do that first, it will just make the freeze plug harder to get to.
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Chuck in Ohio
*1962 GMC 1000 Panel Truck - 305D/Saginaw 4sp soon: 351C V6 + AX15 5sp OD trans, & 75-87/91 disc brake front end
*1988 Suzuki Samurai 4x4 project, VW 1.9L mTDI, Toyota R151F transmission & Toyota full floater axles, LWB body tub stretch project
*Many 1977-1979 Suzuki GS motorcycles, Kawasaki KDX220R, '77 Suzuki PE250, etc
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