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Old 04-25-2016, 09:39 PM   #34
HO455
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 6,172
Re: Working Man's Burbon

Thanks for the encouraging words. I have ordered my window seals from Dan's Classic Chevrolet here in Portland. I will update as to what brand when I have them in hand. I won't reinstall the glass until the paint is sprayed. I am still debating if it is worth the effort to fab a support for the lower part of the seal.
I have spent the last day realigning the passenger side fender and doors. I was unable to get the door to open without touching the fender. The aftermarket fender holes did not line up correctly, so I had to grind the bottom back one, both of the upper back ones and both of the holes through the inner fender well had to be ovalled out. In addition at the front of the fender it hit the bottom of the core support which prevented me from moving the fender forward to increase the gap between it and the door. I was unable to determine if the fender was made wrong or if the frame/core support was tweaked so I split the difference and cut and bent the inner part of the fender (photo #1) for more clearance and I shimmed the core support up (photo #2). The interfering parts of the fender and core support needed to move a 1/2" so the fender could be shifted to clear the door. Shimming the core support up meant that the bolt was now too short. Which became something of an issue as 7/16-14 bolts are not available at Ace hardware or the big box stores. I had to wait until Monday for Winks Hardware to open so I could get a new 3" long bolt to be able to reattach the core support. The third picture shows the final result. The wow just below center is from the fender not being a straight line. After getting the fender set up I went through and readjusted the doors and then tightened the fender down. When doing the doors remember the bolts that attach the hinge to the cab allow the door to move up and down (photo #4) and the bolts that attach the hinge to the door allow the door to move in and out from the cab. There is no adjustment to move the door forward or back in the cab. Removing the latch plate before starting to adjust the door can save you some time as the door can be moved by the latch when you close the door and you won't see any change in the gaps. Short of major door disassembly and reconstruction the best you can do is to try and balance the gaps around the door. For example if I wanted consistent door gaps on my third door I would have to remove and reposition the window frame on the door. After your satisfied with the gaps reinstall the latch plate making sure it doesn't rub on the door when closing. You may have to shim the plate to prevent it from rubbing like I did (last photo). Good luck and if your like me you may have to go to the store and buy a six pack of patience.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help.
1967 Burban the WMB,1991 S(stink)-10 Blazer,1969 GTO, 1970 Javelin, 1952 F3 Ford 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird. 85 Alfa Romeo
If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place
The WMB http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377
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