Quote:
Originally Posted by tinydb84
I'm in the middle of doing that with mine. You don't have to change the crossmembers. Arms, spindles, rotors, and tie rods. The calipers are the same as long as you stick with the 1.25'' rotors.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI
The upper studs are larger so the shafts are different.
The C20 upper arms have the HD type bushings which are different vs C10's after 72.
1/2 ton BJ's will swap right over to the C20 arms.
Lower arms are different (larger OD ball joint) & again the HD bushings.
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I have read almost every thread that talks about this but, invariably, there are conflicting, or at best confusing, comments and none of them actually give a detailed account of what works, what has to be modified and how, what has to be purchased, or what will never work.
I do not mean to come across as critical, but for those of us looking at this kind of project, which posts up regularly because we can only find a clean C20 in our area, sometimes we come away more confused than when we started. Far too many threads have been started about this and died an ugly death without any clear and concise documented process as to how to go about it successfully or a clear refutation of its feasibility in the first place.
If
the 1/2 ton ball joints swap right over to the C20 arms, but
the lower arms are different with larger OD ball joints, and
the C20 upper arms have the HD type bushings which are different vs C10's after 72... how then do the "1/2 ton ball joints swap right over?"
For the larger upper studs, can they be pressed out or can the shaft holes be enlarged... assuming there is enough material to do so safely?
Since the C20 upper arms have the HD type bushings which are different vs C10's after 72, does that mean the holes for the bushings are a different diameter, which means you can't use the upper arms and their specific shafts, or can they be modified and how?
I hope people can see how confused we become. It leaves you with the idea that the only way to accomplish this is to swap cross members and keep all the C10 components intact because they will never interchange with C20. I have even been told that the C20 frame has a taller cross-section and thicker material. If that is true, then how does that affect the fitment and geometry with a C10 cross member swap?
What is needed is someone who has done this successfully and in a safe manner. Lacking that, we need something with more clarity and details or someone with the trade knowledge to say it can not be done.
I for one can accept the finality that it can't be done. I just want to know that from an authority on the subject. I have a full C10 front frame clip and all the parts sand blasted and ready for powder coating, as well as the mating 12 Bolt 3rd member. If I can use components, fine; what and how? If I have to swap the cross member fine; will there be any fitment issues? If I have to graft on the frame clip, fine.
I know there is a C10 2.5" drop spindle conversion kit from Early Classic Enterprises that will use all the other C20 parts for those that can afford the $349 (
http://www.earlyclassic.com/catalog....ry=Drop%20Kits ). Barring any valid, documented example of using C10 parts, this may be the right choice for many of us and we can sell our C10 parts. (besides, we would have the benefit of a much more robust front suspension than a stock C10)
I apologize in advance if my frustration shows. I am by no means ignorant around vehicles and neither am I an expert. I am smart enough to recognize confusion and would like to get past that part and become educated.
If ever there was a need for a good sticky, this would be one. I challenge anyone with the expertise to document said swap and post it here. We will petition for a sticky and definitively answer this recurring question once and for all!!