The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network - View Single Post - 47-55.1 AD wiring

**gigamanx** · 12-26-2017, 09:31 AM

I can only vouch for the one truck I've been building. I happen to be at the end of my wiring as of a few nights ago. I just got myself working lights! I originally wanted to use the existing harness from my 1988 S10, but trying to figure out what wires go where, what has a fuse, what don't I need, ugh. Crazy!

I have the JEGS 10405 universal 20 circuit harness. It has more than I need as it includes circuits for power doors and windows.

+ Each wire is labeled with the function of that wire. Printed all along the strand. Its my favorite thing about buying a wiring harness. No color codes needed, just read the wire

+ Each circuit has a fuse and it comes with the relays. All you have to do is run the wires.

+ Wires are grouped for their function. Engine group, tail group, instrument group, ignition group.

+ I am yet to find a function on my truck that doesn't have a wire. I did add an electric fan that contains an electric thermostat shut off. It came with its own four wires, but they were easy to figure out.

+ The manual spells out what each wire is for.

- The only wire too short was the passenger tail light. I had to add about 12". I probably could have wiggled things around to get the extra space, but I like my wires to have tidy routing along the frame, so I think I used a little extra for that.

- Sure, it would be great to have all the wiring connectors like a painless harness, but after wiring the whole truck, I realize I would have had to do my own anyway. For example, I bought new park and LED taillights that needed to have connectors installed. Easy when I had a box full of ones I bought and could choose what to use.

I actually ended up going with some generic waterproof connectors. They were super easy to crimp, work awesome, comes in 2, 3, 5 wire connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/MUYI-Waterpro...nector+3+prong

So having just done this (and never having wired more than a light bulb before), I can't say enough for the amount of anguish I avoided for that $300. I would do it again in a heartbeat. To get the carbureted engine running, you'll need a few other wires of course.

1. Battery pos+ and neg- cables
2. Ignition module
3. Neutral safety switch wire from the trans to the starter
4. Ground wires for headlights, fuel pump, electric fan, tail lights
5. Make a few 4ft wires that have alligator clips on each end. I used them a ton just to test circuits before attaching connectors and making things perfect. Great for troubleshooting. Stick a light bulb between them as someone suggested to me to make a few attachable test lights.

I'm working on making my own harness diagram for my 3100 in visio. I'll post it up when I'm done.

12-26-2017, 09:31 AM	#17
gigamanx Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Hershey, PA Posts: 1,004	Re: AD wiring I can only vouch for the one truck I've been building. I happen to be at the end of my wiring as of a few nights ago. I just got myself working lights! I originally wanted to use the existing harness from my 1988 S10, but trying to figure out what wires go where, what has a fuse, what don't I need, ugh. Crazy! I have the JEGS 10405 universal 20 circuit harness. It has more than I need as it includes circuits for power doors and windows. + Each wire is labeled with the function of that wire. Printed all along the strand. Its my favorite thing about buying a wiring harness. No color codes needed, just read the wire + Each circuit has a fuse and it comes with the relays. All you have to do is run the wires. + Wires are grouped for their function. Engine group, tail group, instrument group, ignition group. + I am yet to find a function on my truck that doesn't have a wire. I did add an electric fan that contains an electric thermostat shut off. It came with its own four wires, but they were easy to figure out. + The manual spells out what each wire is for. - The only wire too short was the passenger tail light. I had to add about 12". I probably could have wiggled things around to get the extra space, but I like my wires to have tidy routing along the frame, so I think I used a little extra for that. - Sure, it would be great to have all the wiring connectors like a painless harness, but after wiring the whole truck, I realize I would have had to do my own anyway. For example, I bought new park and LED taillights that needed to have connectors installed. Easy when I had a box full of ones I bought and could choose what to use. I actually ended up going with some generic waterproof connectors. They were super easy to crimp, work awesome, comes in 2, 3, 5 wire connectors. https://www.amazon.com/MUYI-Waterpro...nector+3+prong So having just done this (and never having wired more than a light bulb before), I can't say enough for the amount of anguish I avoided for that $300. I would do it again in a heartbeat. To get the carbureted engine running, you'll need a few other wires of course. 1. Battery pos+ and neg- cables 2. Ignition module 3. Neutral safety switch wire from the trans to the starter 4. Ground wires for headlights, fuel pump, electric fan, tail lights 5. Make a few 4ft wires that have alligator clips on each end. I used them a ton just to test circuits before attaching connectors and making things perfect. Great for troubleshooting. Stick a light bulb between them as someone suggested to me to make a few attachable test lights. I'm working on making my own harness diagram for my 3100 in visio. I'll post it up when I'm done. __________________ Current Build Thread 1930 Ford Model A Modern Twist: Ford Model A Rat Rod With a Modern Twist Build Thread Phase 1 "The Swap": 1949 3100 with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition! Build Thread Phase 2 "The Drop": Beginner Build with Ambition gets Air Ride Last edited by gigamanx; 12-26-2017 at 09:38 AM.