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Old 08-21-2016, 09:57 PM   #217
GASoline71
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
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Re: Out of the Ditch = The Rebuild Begins ('72 GMC)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20 View Post
It.looks a little worse but you got some experience from the other side. Good luck buddy
Thanks dude! It took me a lot longer on the other side as I was learning how everything came apart as I went. Now I Have a better idear on how it all comes apart and goes back together.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarvis-69 GMC 1500CK View Post
What page (if any) did the hing get repaired, I have the exact same thing happening (just from rust) so would love to see how you fixed it.
I haven't got to that part yet. But I do have another drivers side door that is basically junk except for the hinge pockets. So When I attack that part, and figure out how I'm going to do it, I will post all that up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp rat View Post
My thoughts are to work/fit just the lower A pillar now before cutting anything else out, get it cut to length and get the lower holes transferred to it., that A pillar later will become a control point that will allow you to align the lower cab support to it, plus it will keep the floor and support from dropping too low. Ya don't want to weld it right away but it can be clamped in place later with butt weld clamps or tacked temporarily then removed when needed while fitting the rest of the floor and inner kick.
I did exactly that Mike. Now that I have all of that lined up I went ahead and cut the rest of the floor and rear cab corner out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironangel View Post
You did a hellofa fit up for junk panels Gary, well done! I keep a jar of small teck-screws handy during fit up. They're easier than clamps and the holes fill with a spot weld, they're more forgiving if you have to move a piece a little too. I make lap joints where ever I can for ease of welding. I cut the cab corners right at the formed point with a small lap, when I run that bead the weld becomes the rolled point and a sanding flapper disk on the angle grinder will contour the final body lines. I like the Tri-Plus body panels. Rockers should have a 3/4" - 1" hole in the end that allows undercoat or your favorite rust inhibitor to be sprayed inside the full length of the rocker. A simple thin plug installs in the hole. Heres a pic of the cab corner transition where I make the cut & weld, leave the top long for a lap from the new lower panel. I like to use the one piece outer floor/inner rocker panel as it helps locate and integrate the cab corner and pillar as well as the floor. Heres a link to my first rocker & cab corner R&R. Looks like your doing just fine though, just some ideas that may help, good luck! https://www.facebook.com/michael.hil...1197237&type=3
Thanks dude! and nice job! I still need to cut that hole in the front of the rocker to spray some rust gunk in there.

Funny thing as I was cutting out spot welds on this side there were nearly a half as many less than there was on the passenger side. Dude running the spot welder on the drivers side must've been having a rough day. Drivers side was just ridiculous with so many spot welds holding it all together.

Gary
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My 1972 GMC 1500 Super Custom (Creeping Death) "long term" build thread.

The Rebuild of Creeping Death after the wreck

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I would never rebuild a 305.
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I love using vacuum gauges as part of the carb tuning process. I hook the gauge to the inside of my garbage can and leave it there.
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Remember Murphys 2nd law of mechanical relationships... "OPPOSING COMPONENTS ATTEMPTING TO OCCUPY THE SAME SPACE, AT THE SAME TIME, GENERALLY END UP OCCUPYING ADJOINING SPACE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE OIL PAN"
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Its cheaper to listen to advice given when you ask for help than it is to ignore everyone and wait for carnage.
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