Quote:
Originally Posted by Guitarmaker
Okay, perfect! That gives me a target to shoot at. I wasn't aware of the balance issue and bolt pattern change(kinda shows my age, but hey, I know to ask what I don't know!).
Anything else change while I was asleep? Like, bell housing bolt pattern, or the motor mount locations? What about the alternator and power steering mounts? Do the old ones still bolt up, or will I have to run the newer ones? No problem either way, but it's nice to know ahead of time.
Yeah, it's been a good while since I last did this sort of stuff, but ya know, the itch is getting strong again, and damn, I need to scratch it!
My last swap was a 3.8L Buick V6 into a S-10 Blazer('84? '85?), and before that it was a Kenne Bell built Stage 1 455 Buick into an '81 Olds Cutlass! My Grand National is mostly stock, with only headers, exhaust, and some turbo and waste gate mods.
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All your regular sbc brackets/engine mounts will bolt up and the bellhousing bolt pattern is the same. You'll want to get a new plastic timing cover, don't use the old one over again. It will have a hole for a crank position sensor that will need to be plugged. You'll probably get a fel-pro one piece pan gasket. The instructions will say to put it on dry. Unless you like to drop oilpans after they are in the truck I would put a bead or permatex right stuff on the timing cover and rear main cap area where the gasket seals. Also put a bead on the pan in the same areas.
Check the deck height when you tear down the engine, it will probably be .025". These are just over 9 to 1 in stock trim and it is doubtful that it will need bored or new pistons. The gasket that comes out of it will probably be around .026-.028 thick. I would use a .015 fel-pro steel shim head gasket, the oem gasket from GM or zero deck the block and use a thicker .040" or so fel-pro. You'll have to measure to check it all out. I just built one so most of the numbers are still fresh in my head.