I figure I’d start of with how I wound up at the No Limit Pro-C10 chassis. It was quite a journey.
It started off with tons of internet trolling through the build forums looking at what various people had learned through their process and also reading the make it handle threads that Rob has in several places. So in keeping with the theme and maybe helping others in their pursuit of upgrades, I give you my trials and tribulations.
My goals for suspension upgrades were basically improve handling and ride a ton with no strong desire to lay frame on this build. So I focused mainly on products with coil over options, but I also considered if I could swap out to air ride one day.
So here are the options I wound up with:
-Hotchkis TVS
-Porter Built Level 2 (coil overs)(I also looked at bagged setups)
-No Limit Pro-C10 Chassis
-No Limit Wide Ride IFS + Fat Bar (coil overs) (BTW, the No Limit trailing arm kit wasn’t out yet)
-Roadster Shop Revo Front and Rear Bolt in kits (coil overs)
-Roadster Shop Fast Track Chassis
-Roadster Shop Revo Chassis
Let me say, all those options are top notch. It was hard deciding, but a few things helped narrow down the list even further. First, I did not want to perform any serious body mods. I wanted to keep the body as stock looking as I can (but not resto stock, i.e. proper trim, paint colors, etc.). This eliminated the Roadster Shop Fast Track since that chassis requires something like slosh tubs up front, so now you loose your factory hood hinge and need a cowl mount which easily added over $1k in body work I didn’t want to do, not to mention you need a pretty healthy trans tunnel and I wanted to keep the low hump tunnel if I could.
Then, I made a video, which I’ll share below, that shows just how flimsy the stock frame can be if nothing is added to stiffen it up. Once I started getting all the costs added up (keeping in mind most of the chassis options include a rear axle housing, so I including rear axle upgrades in all options that weren’t full chassis) a full chassis was not much more when you consider it is a fully boxed frame with a huge center cross-member. So when you put it all into perspective, the full chassis came out the better overall value (yes, it cost more). And you see this value perspective with aftermarket companies that used to not make chassis replacements starting to make chassis replacements.
And as many of you know, you can put all the fancy suspension on you want, but if the chassis just twists away, then that fancy suspension isn't going to give you the full benefit. So it was either look into boxing in the stock chassis, or look at aftermarket options. I went aftermarket simply because I don't have the shop resources to do the kind of needed chassis mods and keep the chassis square. Yeah, I got a welder and could weld on some plates, but if I distort the chassis too much, no alignment will ever help.
So now I’m down to No Limit Pro-C10 chassis and Roadster Shop Revo chassis. Both are very comparable to each other. It was a hard decision to make because both companies do excellent work and both were very helpful on the phone in the sales phase. In the end, it came down to the No Limit chassis was slightly more aligned with where I wanted to take the truck, which is a fun cruiser that I can take to the local autocross/road coarse/drag strip on occasion and have some fun. Rob has a ton of experience in that realm and he frequents the forums quite a bit so that swayed me his direction, if not mainly because I can find setup advise fairly easily and know he puts all his track experience into his products.
With that, here is a mostly raw video of me just doing a simple test. Rob has actually started doing a similar test with a more objective result on various chassis he has round the shop. Check out their Facebook page for some of those videos.