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Old 02-03-2009, 03:06 AM   #69
rfmaster
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: OC CA
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Re: Tbi swap build thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by 408cuda View Post
My friend/owner of the truck came over today and we went through his factory wiring. I was thinking we will use a new ignition switch and distribute power through it. Nothing will actually be going through his wiring this way. We have it stripped down to just a few wires left on his that we figured we can power off the new, or even existing fuse box. The items left are...

Headlights
Turn signals/brakes etc
Cig lighter
Radio
Horn

That's about all there is to this thing. There are a grand total of 4 wires going to his fuse box now! Pretty simple.

I was thinking of using the red 10g hot in from the power strip for the BAT side a switch.
Purple 10g for to starter on START terminal of said switch
A jumper from that wire to fuse block, C9 prple/wht on the other side of that fuse.
New 10g wire from ACC or RUN terminal on ignition switch to power up new fuse block.
And then my wires needing 12v in RUN can be hooked to new fuse box.

Does this sound acceptable? Like I said, I am no wiring master.

I traced a few of the unknowns left today and found the green wire was temp sender on head (was hooked on old engine) went to the gauge cluster (that was what I was unsure of on that one)
Tan that goes to nowhere, also goes to gauges
All VSS wires go into cluster harness
Blue and light green wires from trans....blue to switched hot in fuse and green doubles around and heads back out to engine bay, no clue from there but guess it's too back-up lights as cj suggested?
Also forgot brown wire last night. Goes from alt to cluster for volt gauge I reckon?
And fuel pump harness has a pink wire from pump to the cluster that I initially thought was a hot but if power is Tan/white via orange, this must have been for the fuel gauge?
The rest I think are pretty much known.

Thanks a bunch guys. Can't wait to fire her up! Going to button it up and plumb some fuel soon just to see if it will ignite. After that it gets blown apart and goes out for paint.
I am trying to follow what you are trying to do - it is very difficult without schematics or diagrams. Can you draw a diagram of what you are trying to do and post it. I know it is tough enough, but I am just trying to prevent shorts and burned wires and 'oh s*&*' moments!


You can relocate Knock Sensor (KS) to the other side, but it must be screwed into oil pan rail (water jacket drain plug) to be effective! KS is a calibrated microphone, tuned for a knock frequency found in a specific engine family.

//RF
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1975 Chevrolet C20 longbed
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