Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawabuggy
Rollerizing the gear train is a great way to prolong the life of the unit in high performance applications, or where towing regularly, or when towing heavy loads frequently. IMO, it is not needed for 95% of most daily driven vehicles that rarely see abuse. We do it at my shop on Stage 3 and above units. It is typically a LOT of work machining everything, and assembling to check clearances as you go. We use a lathe, and a mill, for this type of work.
Lately, I've gotten to the point where we leave everything under the center support alone, and just rollerize everything between the pump, and the center support, and make certain that NO LOAD from the front of the unit is being applied to anything under the center support. This means the forward drum, O/D planetary set, and direct drum are floated on bearings and supported OFF of the sun gear tube, and the intermediate shaft. Essentially we are floating the forward, direct, and O/D planet set on bearings and isolating that load into, or onto, the center support, which then transmits that load to the case by way of the fretting ring. Doing it this way insures that the planet thrust washer, and selective washer are seeing significantly reduced loads. We are putting a bearing on BOTH sides of the forward clutch hub. On stage 4 and above, we will then rollerize everything under the center support, shore up the planetary clearance, and put the roller bearing between case & output shaft. IMO, just doing the "top" side components (between pump & center support) is more beneficial than messing with everything under the center support. Significantly less machine work for outstanding longevity. I have, to date, never had a unit come back with any significant wear, or any damage, due to these modifications. In fact, the only one I've had come back was due to water intrusion into the unit. When we checked clearances compared to when it was first assembled, and built, it gained less than .004" in end clearance and the planet thrust washer looked brand new still.
One thing I will mention, if you are working on this unit you MUST vacuum test the AFL valve in the valve body, or if you don't have a vacuum test stand, and the unit has 100K miles or more, then install the Sonnax valve, or ream and install an over-size valve. If anyone needs a valve body reamed, I can ream and install the O/S valves and ship the VB to you. I will need your old one back as a core though. Or, you can ship me yours, I'll ream it and install the valve and ship back to you. This valve, along with damaged/clogged AFL screens, are responsible for a LOT of problems. Also, these units after rebuild may exhibit TCC clutch drag.. Be proactive in your rebuild and take steps to insure you don't have this issue. There are Sonnax valves that will preclude this issue, or there are manual changes you can make to your pump if you have it apart that will accomplish the same thing. Always recommended to replace the pump gears, pump bushing, reverse boost valve, when you have the pump apart.
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Thanks Kawabuggy for taking the time to help me out.
Here is my plan so far. It will be another week before I get time and parts to start working on it again. The truck is more for fun and cruising but I will tow some with it and I plan to shoot for 550hp 1200ftlbs of torque latter down the road so I figured I better do it right.
Hopefully I am off to a good start with the stage five kit from Jakes Performance. BW clutches, 300m input, 36 element super drum, Rollerized billet foward hub, billet main shaft, Sonnax boost valve, 10%+ regulator spring will be a good start. Plus I ordered there recalibration with the 3rd and 4th accumulator block offs. With the their separator plate undrilled. I don't want a super hard shift so hopefully this isn't to bad. My main question here is do I run the factory waves in all the clutch packs or not. I read that some of the waves can break and cause clutch packs to stick.
So far I ordered a set of Sonnex pump gears, Sonnex upgraded pressure regulator spool, Sonnex overrun clutch manifold (plan to run it in OD so hopefully this will help the over run sprag live). Bushings bearings and shims to rollerize the rear case.
I placed an order with CK performance. I ordered his intermediate clutch spring retainer and a the thick pressure plate that makes contact with the HD snap ring (CK says they flex with high line pressure), A modded TH400 piston and hd springs for the direct clutch. Probally should have went with the billet direct piston but to late now.
My plans are and please correct me if I am making a mistake. Also, I do plan to follow the steps in the 2 part Gear Magazine I posted to get all the end clearances right and float the forward, direct, and O/D planet set on bearings and isolating that load on the center support. The forward hub from Jakes should come machined for rollerizing. But I am sure there is more machine work to be done.
1. Rollerize the rear case. Seems pretty easy to do using a Sonnex no walk bushing back wards. a TH350 pump bearing starting with a .020" shim.
2. I am thinking I don't want to go through the trouble to rollerize between the reaction carrier planetary and output carrier assembly. So I am thinking I can used the old rear case thrust here instead of the factory plastic. Currently the reaction carrier has .025" of float. I read a article by Sonnex recommends .010" float. SO I was thinking cant I use the old rear case thrust with a .015" TH350 pump shim to achieve this? Hoping its not a bad Idea and the 4 legs of the thrust will have plenty of material still in the planetary.
3. To keep the thurst from the rear I plan a fit the TH350 pump thrust bearing to the center support by machining it to 0.375” measuring from the front face of the boss, and to an inside diameter of 2.125” and an outside diameter of 2.875”. then shiming it to keep the thrust off the sun gear tube and main shaft. I am think I may have to file the front main shaft if I cant get it to shimmed properly.
Greatly appreciate all the tips. My AFL does have some slack. will most likely just order a $125 transgo kit to install the bigger spool. Hopefully it will last. The Sonnex really seems like the way to go but the reemer is exspensive. Also, I look into my options for correcting the TCC.