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Old 10-11-2017, 07:58 PM   #11
abohler1
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironangel View Post
Did you get a new crush sleeve? The crush sleeve holds a preload on the bearings by collapsing a pre-bent shoulder on the sleeve. So anytime you relieve that preload your supposed to replace that sleeve, that's why you have to re-torque the pinion nut to such a high value. Now with that said, if you re-install the old sleeve like many guys do, you'll tighten that nut until there is no end play in the pinion shaft and give it another half of a hex or 1/12th of a turn. Make sure you use red Loctite on the nut. (I suggest making a holding plate for the yoke and use a cheater pipe to hold it. Use a cheater pipe on a good 1/2" or better yet 3/4" break-over bar to crush the new sleeve to zero endplay and your good.)
I didn't get a new crush sleeve. I put everything together, and lined up the paint marks on the nut. Hopefully the amount of threads was correct. I did try to eliminate the play. I cannot pull the yoke in or out at all in a straight line from the rear, but when I turn the yoke clockwise it jiggles a bit. I assume that is still supposed to happen and would be the lash. I'm just hoping i didn't leave too much play. The good news is, everything that is marked lines up so i would just add one full turn of the nut. I guess under torquing is always better than over torquing.
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