frame paint suggestions?

[pkj]

took the body off frame this weekend. my frame looks pretty good. i will scrape and wire brush this week after work. this weekend i will power wash it. what next? this will be a driveway job. no powder coat. what do you guys suggest step by step to get frame painted? what about a finish that has some type of texture? i will be spraying everything, not brushing. it seems everyone uses black. any other ideas on color? thanks,pkj

[cdowns]

black frames on daily drivers stay better looking for a much longer period of time than anyother color// the paint itself really depens on budget but for me a driver quality resto it's real hard to beat the value of rustoleum

[GlennBrittain]

Look at the post My 70 LWB build thread

[1972gasser]

Hey man I did my pro-streeter in my driveway with a rust inhibiter additive in midnite black fromm ppg, The gang mixed it for me from service king(those guys rock) shot it in the drive way waited about 24 hrs and shot 5 coats of a clear coat sealer over it. came out awesome All things shiney,billet, chrome and braided with AN fittings are looking "killer" against the paint job. total cost $100.00 including a cheap gravity feed gun. Good Luck brother you can do it!

[1972gasser]

OHHHH Yeah, Don't forget the PREP WORK no short cuts here man!!! If you do your job will turn out bad! Prep work sucks ass but take the time, it is so worth it!!!

[rodstored-72]

i agree with the above post about prep work. do it the best you can from there & things will look like you want. as far as paint goes i prefer the por-15 chassis black. it is more then rustoleum, but i think it is better & i believe the chip factor is not as high. i sprayed my frame with the por-15 & i am very pleased with the results.

good luck!
rodstored-72

[71blksuper4x4]

I had painted my 71 frame with por 15 and will never use that product again. The coating did not stick to my frame at all even after buying and following all the procedures. The paint peeled off in big layers. For my 1996, we went to a farm and tractor supply, or Orchelin's and pick up Van Sickle Farm Implement and Tractor paint. This stuff is really durable and is cheap..... like 20 odd bucks a gallon. I will use it again on my 71 sometime soon.

[jooooooe]

por 15 is pretty hard to get off your skin, actually, you just have to wear it off, I always use PPG, pretty much any black 2 stage without using clear coat, you end up with the semi-gloss look, kinda' like the original factory finish.

[JAKES 68GMC]

I'd go the Rustoleum route myself, or a paint from a tractor supply like mentioned above. I don't know it you can get it in gallon cans (it does come in quarts) or not, but Rustoleum black "hammered finish" is really good stuff. It's very durable, almost like a coating more than a paint. And when it's dry, it has a glossy, crinkle type finish.

[ChevyDude]

I did mine in Rustoleum's Hammered Silver...Looks pretty darn clean. Easy to touch up and is surprisingly tough!

[pkj]

thanks everyone. talked with my PPG rep today and he suggest a wash primer, then epoxy if i dont want to por-15 it. the epoxy he suggested fills like crazy. the second coat can be put on light for low luster finish or very wet for high gloss. still not sold on going with black. something keeps prodding me to go a silver or medium gray. truck will be original light yellow. what do you think? thanks, pkj

[ChevyDude]

Silver...nice chose...looks super clean....and I decided that everything that was originally black would now be SILVER:

[84_4x4]

the silver looks really good maybe more a glassy look kinda a platnum color would also be nice

[pkj]

oh yea!!! thats the ticket. thanks

[Longhorn Man]

Why don't you want to POR it? if the metal is clean, it'll stick better than anything, last longer than anything, and protect better than anything. It's only real compitition is the eastwoods rust ecapsulator, and in our tests at work, POR is better if you pay attention to detail when putting it all on.

[pat]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

Why don't you want to POR it? if the metal is clean, it'll stick better than anything, last longer than anything, and protect better than anything. It's only real compitition is the eastwoods rust ecapsulator, and in our tests at work, POR is better if you pay attention to detail when putting it all on.

But if you do go with the black POR15, you MUST topcoat it. I had my frame blasted and I painted it with POR15. Looked great for a while, but I didnt get around to getting it out of the sun for a while and it lost its shine.

[84 400]

i hear por 15 won't stick well to very clean surfaces and etching is needed to make it stick. I am looking at an old 54 willys Pic up to do a drive way resto on and do all the work my self. For paint on frame and suspention parts i am going with alot and i mean alot of prep, 3 coats of rust olium brown primer for heavly rusted metals and then two top coats of hammered black. Also on all un seen body portions ie inner fenders underside of fenders and under cab and bed i am going to stip two coats of brown rustolium primer for heavely rusted metals and then use rubberized under coating. Then spray them the body color ontop of the under coating. The main thing is not to trap rust in under the paint removeit then seal the frame.

[Longhorn Man]

if you have a 1954 anything... it'll stick. It'll stick to rust, pits, freshly sand blasted metal... it'll stick.
It WON'T stick to paint, oil, grease,water

[70c10swb]

i por15 mine and i toped it with rustolium(sp) flat balck. i would have like to go with gloss but it is so pitted it would look like poop. the flat black hid most of it and it looks good i think.

[wibilly]

i used por15 and topcoated with rustoliem satin black whil;e it was still tacky